Washdown Rating ?

milmat1

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Aug 2005
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What really is a Wash-down Rating ?

Is this a separate rating from like a NEMA 4x ?

I often hear wash-down terminology thrown around but does this refer to a specific NEMA or I.P. Rating ?
 
What really is a Wash-down Rating ?

Is this a separate rating from like a NEMA 4x ?

I often hear wash-down terminology thrown around but does this refer to a specific NEMA or I.P. Rating ?


I don't think there is a specific rating for "washdown", but there if a product doesn't have certain ratings it probably won't hold up to washing very well.

On the NEMA side, 4 or 4X is probably what you're looking for.

One the IP side, IP65 is for low pressure spray, IP66 is for high pressure spray, and IP66K is for VERY high pressure spray. IP67 can be submerged in shallow water.

If you are doing this in a food type environment, then Stainless steel is usually required as well. I don't have much experience there.

Here in Detroit, there is a big push in the major automotive manufacturers to have machine mountable, washdown equipment (PLC, IO, motor starters, etc). Every spec I see like these asks for IP65.
 
Many food plants accept white powder coating for motors and gearboxes.
It seems to hold up well except for acid conditions, citrus etc.
 
These animals on here wash everything down with high pressure salt water in our factory.
(I know....crazy hu....but that's how they do it and have been doing it for 30 years)

We use IP67 and Nema4x everywhere we can.

Although with high pressure you could use Explosion Proof Rated stuff and they would still find a way to drive water into it.
(Keeps things interesting at times :rolleyes:)

BCS
 
It depends on where you are. In North America, NEMA standards have been taken over by UL, so instead of being self-regulated standards, they are now tested and approved by a 3rd party NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing lab).

UL Type 4 is indeed "wash down" because the test for it is water applied at 65GPM from a 1" nozzle from ANY angle, with no penetration of liquid.

UL Type 4X is the same liquid tight standard, it just adds a degree of corrosion protection against chemical agents, usually cleaners. Which chemical agents is a matter of reading test data, because not all Type 4X systems are required to be impervious to all chemicals, they just have to be clear on WHICH ones in their data sheets and it's up to the user to confirm applicable requirements. But in general, salt water is inclusive in all versions. Type 4/4X is also approved for "outdoor use" which means it protects against ice, snow, dust, sunlight etc.

OUTSIDE of North America, there is a different rating system based on IEC (International Electrotechnical Commission) standards, using what is called a "degree of Ingress Protection", abbreviated as "IP", followed by a 2 digit number. The first digit denotes the degree of protection against mechanical touching and particle entry, ranging from 0-8, with 0 being essentially "open" so it can be touched, 8 being essentially bullet proof. Nobody really makes anything greater than IP6_, which is fully protected from contact and is also dust tight. The second digit relates to the amount of protection against moisture, ranging 0-8 with 0 being unprotected and 8 being total continuous submersion in (I think) 10 meters of water (40'). There is however no exact direct equivalent to the NEMA hose test in the IP system. Most people interpret IP_5 as being "water tight", but the test standard is essentially like a gentle shower head spray only from the top. Hose directed water is NOT necessarily excluded. IP_6 is referred to as "splash protection" or "heavy seas", meaning an occasional short burst at relatively higher force than IP_5, but still not a continual attack by a fire hose. IP_7 is rated for actual submergence for short periods, but at 1m depth, for no more than I think 3 minutes.

So IP65 is essentially equivalent to what we would call Type 12, which is "drip tight" and dust tight. I would not consider it "washdown" and many inspectors here in North America will not accept that for food processing machinery controls, where cleaning procedures involve hosing the machines down with a fire hose spewing caustic cleaning solutions. The closest you will find to type 4X, and often acceptable, is IP67. Just be aware that if Joe Bubba the Cleaner points his fire hose at an IP67 push button for 5 minutes to get that bit of slime off of it, it might fail because it wasn't really designed to deal with that.

In reality, most of the major players in the pilot device world, even those from the EU, will test their devices to BOTH standards. That's because for example if you pass UL Type 4X, you will definitely pass IP67. So they basically test to the hardest standard and attain both ratings (IP ratings are self-certified anyway, no 3rd parties involved). Where you get into trouble is when you buy over the internet from bottom feeder suppliers who make any kind of claim because they don't have to back it up.
 
I work in a Food (Dairy) plant, and pretty much EVERYTHING is Stainless Steel. They still figure out ways to get the water in. We try to use IP69K sensors and they STILL get water into them. Constantly filling the motor flex conduits ( which are stainless steel too), with water. Where theres a will, theres a way....
 
Just my two cents from experience when it comes to wash-down plants (I work in a beef plant):

Take into account condensation. If the room is kept at a constant temperature with relatively low humidity, you are generally alright in this regard, but if the temperature is raised to clean and prevent condensation on the ceiling, you equipment will have it as well.

Gaskets and seals must be regularly changed, but you also must make sure you don't over-tighten as this will pinch the gasket and open it up.

Drill very very small holes at certain points in some equipment to let the water out if you have a problem with the box filling up with water. I generally take new boxes that are on the floor and check them for the first couple months. If I see moisture building up on the bottom I put a couple drain holes in them. Yea, you CAN get water spray up in the bottom, but it will be minimal and will drain out unless your sanitation guys get crazy.

For boxes on the floor, use a T or X as opposed to a regular LB. Put either 6" piece of pipe or an actual drain on the bottom. Conduit can condensate as well, and this is useful when going into local disconnects.

Try to put all knockouts you can on the BOTTOM of the box. When combined with a drain on the fittings, this keeps boxes very dry.

DO NOT ignore the plugs on motors, those are drain plugs and super useful. Also in this regard, align your peckerheads so that they can drain.

Carry an air nozzle, sanitation will always find a way to soak it. Nothing like opening a fixture or boxes and getting a surprise soaking and see smoke float out of it :D
 

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