Cut it out will you

stooperbike

Member
Join Date
Oct 2004
Location
New Hampshire
Posts
78
More of a panel building question than a program question. Has any tried a Plasma cutter to do cut outs in control panels? We are using a jig saw and selected dies + punches. Looking for a faster way to cut carbon steel and stainless steel panels. Thanks for the help.
 
I used a plasma cutter for years to do panel cutouts(not my selelction, boss wanted it done that way).

Biggest problem with prepainted enclosures is that it burns the paint where you cut. Lord help you if you hit a hard spot or lift the nozzle with it on. Fast way to get to repaint an entire panel.

I really don't recommend it at all for prepainted panels. If the panel is bare, it works ok, but you have to have a really steady hand or a CNC plasma machine to do halfway decent work.
 
Yes. We primarly use a plasma cutter, or Greenlee punches for standard round holes.

The one thing about a plasma cutter is it take pratice and paitents. Dont think your going to buy one a get a nice cut on the 1st try..


Icky, you and I were posting at the same time...

Our welder/fabercator uses templates; the burn is very slight and the touchup is usually covered by the panel bezel/frame. The only big inconvience of it all is that the fire alarm system dosnt like the plasma cutter.

We also use a nibbler from time to time. The nibbler cuts out in a cresent shape. Its very fast and accurate, but only for bigger holes since it needs a sizeable starter hole.
 
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we use waterjet when and where possible and hydraulic punches
elsewhere. waterjet is perfect, no chips, burrs or burned paint,
just nice and clean...
 
Plasma leaves grundge on the backside of the panel
Waterjet is clean (CNC) and can handle front panels with side rims
Lasers (also CNC) aren't normaly setup to handle front door heights

Hoped that help confuse you. I repair all three, and we use waterjets for our product

Rod (The CNC dude)
 
Slightly off on a tangent...

Water Machining is simply OUTRAGEOUS!

I've seen 'em cut through 3" steel. It's very slow but very clean. Like most things, the greater the load, the more it takes... in either power, or time, or both. The thinner the work, and the softer the material, the faster.

Those machines are spendy as hell. The nozzle replacement rate on the abrasive type systems is much higher than that on the water-only systems. I've heard numbers like 65,000 psi!

I would love to have an X-Y head with a water-cutter. One of my distractions is Stained Glass. I would love to use a water-cutter instead of a handheld glass-cutter for intricate shapes.

There is a trick we use for blowing a circle in the middle of a piece of glass (it works best with flat-glass... not so good with textured glass). Make a small score at the circumference of the circle (only a couple of degrees of arc). Then, using the tap-ball on the other end of the glass-gutter, apply a short, sharp tap at the center of the circle. If all works out well, then, when the vibration of the tap radiates out from the tap-point to the score mark, the glass fractures. The fracture line produces a circle about the center-point with a very consistent radius.

If all goes well, then the circle simply falls out of the pane. If that occurs, then there is a very satisfied "Aaaaahhhh!". You then have a piece that can be developed beautifully with copper foil; lead-came doesn't work real well in these cases, especially if the project is an external window.

If the circle doesn't drop out as expected, then sometimes a few small taps in a few strategic places might complete the fracture (not often). Otherwise, it's simply another piece of glass for the "small-piece" bin.

You might have seen one of those Secret Agent or Professional Burglar movies where they apply a suction cup and use a circumscribe to score a circle. They then simply pull the circle of glass out of the pane.

I've seen only a very few where they show the "secret step". The secret step is a triggered hammer at the center of the suction cup that strikes the glass at the center of the circle. This produces the vibration that radiates out to the score mark.

I've considered doing this with a laser... too hot; the glass would "craze".

Water Machining would eliminate the heat issue and allow the production of any number of non-circular openings in a pane. Imagine, a non-circular cut in the middle of any kind of glass, flat or textured. And a beautiful, square, or rectangular, or oval, or some weird irregular shaped Stained Glass work-piece inserted in the middle of that glass!

Damn... if only they were affordable... I could consider leaving PLC's... naaaahhh, I'll never leave PLC's!

After all, I would probably want a PLC so that I could contol every aspect of the X-Y tooling!

In terms of panels, since water-machining is out of reach for most, I believe that a plasma cutter is great! We have a few guys here that love to get "artsy" with a plasma cutter... moose, elk, reindeer, the boss with his pants down, etc.

Of course, use it on a raw panel, not a painted one. Get your panel cut to the rough finish, grind it to the final finish, punch your holes and then send it out for paint.
 
Many years ago while doing a stint in a GE plant that made combination starters and some custom panels, I saw a nifty hole punch.

GE had a large sheet metal shop, with 4 or 5 turret punches, several welding lines, including a robot, dedicated lines for high volume products etc. We also picked up a customer that wanted a universal combination starter panel, as they were a mod shop.

Ob occaision, someone would need an extra hole or two in a door or on the flange panel, and one of the foremen would roll over a derick (like an engine puller) that had a small hydraulic pump and a large bore Whitney punch that looked like an oversize C-clamp. Worked great, decided then I would have to have one if I ever had a large panel shop or was involved with one after that.

Could never find anything out from Whitney or any one else, ans could never figure out if it was a stock item or custom made.

My preference is to farm out the sheet metal to someone like IEC or Saginaw. My son keeps trying to put in a sheet metal shop, but I don't think it would be very cost efective.

I used puched and jig saws extensively in the 70's and midway through the 80's. Decided it was so much easier to farm it out.

I hate repainting enclosures, they just don't seem tp look right, specially if they were burned. Ideally punches, specially if you have a hydraulic punch.

regards.....casey
 
Casey,

You just gave me a great idea!! I have a large hydraulic Greeenlee punch with an 18" throut. With the addition of a 1" square punch, we could cut about any size/shape hole we wanted.. I'm gonna look into that.

Thanks, Mike.
 
Hi stooperbike,

Ask some metal sheet specialized suppliers around you for sub-contractors references.

A lot of companies with CNC tools are also seeking for that kind of small and easy jobs (preferably look for waterjet machineries. As Terry said thin gauges or up to 4" monstruous "sheets" are managed as well).

They usually only need you to provide a DXF machining file -you better choose a corner as your dimensions reference- plus your parts or control faceplates. The jet is so thin that whatever you draw, this may be accurately and perfectly cut.

Prices basically depend on the cutting lengths, if your drawing is clear enough and automatically manageable.

Laurent
 
Mike,
Our product is the retrofitting of turret and single station punch presses with or without plasma heads. We slap a PC control in them - high speed @ low cost - parts at Fry's.

We still send front panels out to be jetted and powder coated.

On your Greenlee punch: Cobble together one of those little PowerPacs and some bang-bang valves. Foot switch and two limit switches for stroke. An 'L' frame back gage and WHAMMO - you have a baby Strippit 30-30.

Note* if you plan to nibble out areas (HMIs) try to start from the panel center - if flanged edged. The sheet will stretch a bit - helps cut down on 'oil-canning'

Question is - where do you put the DL06 and WHY? No fun!

Rod (The CNC dude)
 

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