C-H Panelmate 1700 Configuration

Hi people,

Hoping someone can help me. I have been tasked with adding some screens to an existing panelmate running in the middle of nowhere. I have zero experience with these devices, but got the software side of things done ok. Now comes time to go to the fiels and download the new configuration file. Problem is, I only have a laptop with USB ports, no serial. Do I need a USB-to-serial converter of some kind? Will the transfer utility work with the USB at all? What cable do I require? The PLC it's connected to currently is a A-B SLC 5/04 over DH+. Is there some way to use RSLinx to transfer the new configuration to the panelmate via the PLC? (I have the 1747-UIC).

TIA

I have never done this but in the PanelMate Transfer program there is a tab called Port Parameters. On that tab is a drop down list called Port Device. One of the selections can pick is A-B RSLinx. So it MAY work....

Just to be safe, I would bring along a USB/Serial Converter (why don't you have one ... or 4 or 5 already if you are doing controls?) and a serial cable. The cable from Eaton is expensive for what it is so I would just make one myself.

The pinouts are in this document:
http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsecure/cms1/100320.PDF
on PDF page 108.

Thanks. What's the difference between the Eaton cable and a null-modem cable? Also, it looks similar to the pinout of the 1747-CP3 from A-B. So all I need is a USB-serial converter? Just starting out at a new company, just got them to get a new laptop, first time trying to connect to anything other than a PLC (I had to buy everything so far and it's on a 'as needed' purchase plan).

If you're using the DH+ daughter board on the PanelMate, then you can download the configuration from the PC to the PanelMate over DH+. You must also have purchased the remote transfer option along with your Power Pro software. When you set up the PM for transfer, select "Network Transfer" instead of "Serial Transfer". From the transfer utility on the PC, select RSLINX Remote I/O.

If you go with the USB/serial converter, make sure the USB device gets installed as either COM1 or COM2.

The Null Model may or may not have the handshaking lines crossed like in the manual. Some might only have 2,3 and 5 connected?


Use your meter and check the wiring (hint: if you don' thave a meter, now it the time it is "as needed"

Thanks for the help. Is there a particular brand of USB to Serial converter that people have had some consistant success using for this application? I am of course prepared to buy 'several' if needed.