Hot Contactors, Batman!

DairyBoy

Member
Join Date
Jun 2007
Location
UK
Posts
393
Hi all. I recently installed some AB 100 series (24VDC coil) 9A contactors. I had them sat side by side to start, but had to separate them as they were running hot. I dropped the psu to 23.5V to help a bit, but I'm still seeing soft pvc insulation on the coil wires and I think they're dissipating more power than the drives they feed! Just called RA: "Yeah, those ones run hot". Brilliant. Anyone with similar experience?
 
Hi all. I recently installed some AB 100 series (24VDC coil) 9A contactors. I had them sat side by side to start, but had to separate them as they were running hot. I dropped the psu to 23.5V to help a bit, but I'm still seeing soft pvc insulation on the coil wires and I think they're dissipating more power than the drives they feed! Just called RA: "Yeah, those ones run hot". Brilliant. Anyone with similar experience?


Well, i had a similar experience but that was purely an issue of manufacturer goof up...the coil was 24 vac.

Ac coils do get hot if fed with DC.

Hope you have already checked that...

Cheers.
 
An exact part number would help us diagnosis your problem.

We NEVER accept "ruuning hot" as ok.

We even have a contractor come in with an infrared camera and scan our panels just to check for anything running hot.
 
Thanks for the comments. Been caught out with ac coils before; never do that again! It's a 100C09DJ10. Should be good for the job.

Hey, plcsoftvsd, just checked out your gridref. Cool idea.
 
Last edited:
An exact part number would help us diagnosis your problem.

We NEVER accept "ruuning hot" as ok.

We even have a contractor come in with an infrared camera and scan our panels just to check for anything running hot.

Now that's a company with deep pockets right there. Wish most plants were that on top of things!
 
Renting a thermal camera for one day may wll pay off.
One thing is to check all mechanical and electrical areas for suspicious hot spots.
Another thing is to check for energy waste inside and outside of the building.
 
Now that's a company with deep pockets right there. Wish most plants were that on top of things!

Downtime gets expensive quick on a big production line.

Just about every time they came in with the camera, they found something that was on the brink of failure or large energy losses.

One time they even detected that the insulation had settled in one exterior wall. When we torn the wall apart, we found that a leak had matted all the insulation and corroded wiring. So they probably prevented a fire!

In the long run, they have saved us much more then their service costs.
 
We even have a contractor come in with an infrared camera and scan our panels just to check for anything running hot.


Thought you might want to see the guy "in action".

P.S. I asked... his camera costs $85,000 USD!

BTW, he found three excessivly hot contactors, a poor ground connection, and a burnt-out bar heater (each on different machines). All of which are now on our list to be repaired during downtime over christmas break. Saved use tons of production loss.

Plus, he found a leaking heat duct in the ceiling!

Got to love it.

1216090945.jpg
 
An IR camera for plant use does not cost that much. I just bought a top of the line flir( best in the buisness) for a little under 30K.


$85,000.00 for the camera he is using sounds like a tall tale to me.

Long range units for doing images of substations and other large utility equipment are in this range but the equipment has to be carried in a van.
 
Good to know. What brand did you get?

Having one on hand would be nice.... especially to borrow and check the insulation and windows in my house!
 
The 85,000 would be correct if he bought a top of the range unit a few years ago. The price has really come down a lot.
Regards Alan Case
 
I dropped the psu to 23.5V to help a bit, but I'm still seeing soft pvc insulation on the coil wires and I think they're dissipating more power than the drives they feed! Just called RA: "Yeah, those ones run hot". Brilliant. Anyone with similar experience?

When you went down on the voltage it made the amps go up.
 

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