Disconnect

Not if you need the door mechanically interlocked. I'd use WireGuy1950's recommendation assuming you don't have a huge power requirement; the bigger versions (>100A) get pretty pricey.
 
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I agree thru door sux. When they get a little age/wear in the they don't want to line up correctly and are a real PITA

Observations on thru door disconnects.
1. As PLC Kid said they wear and then do not line up well
2. I always found it interesting seeing lockout tag hanging on door operator with door wide open and the breaker inside shut. Have done myself when got all wrapped up troubleshooting.
3. You still have the incoming line hot.

I much prefer an entirely separate disonnect.

Dan Bentler
 
Observations on thru door disconnects.
1. As PLC Kid said they wear and then do not line up well
2. I always found it interesting seeing lockout tag hanging on door operator with door wide open and the breaker inside shut. Have done myself when got all wrapped up troubleshooting.
3. You still have the incoming line hot.

I much prefer an entirely separate disonnect.

Dan Bentler

I prefer a side slung disconnect separate of the enclosure for precisely this reason. Otherwise by our safety rules, I have to lock out the source breaker.
 
I use cable type disconnects usually from SQ D but ABB and Cutler Hammer also have them. Automation direct sells the cutler hammers. They have metal handles just like a disconnect handle so LOTO is not a problem. You also don't have to worry about alignment problems with it being a cable/flexible operator. All you really have to be concerned with is the panel depth.
 

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