reliance maxpac plus vs drive

skooter

Member
Join Date
Jan 2012
Location
saginaw
Posts
3
I was wondering if anyone can ponit me in the right direction about this unit. It powers a1957 bulard boring mill that has been worked on a few times. :O it will run for 30-40 minutes then quit. Few hours later it works, usually. Nothing seems to get hot. I operate the machine and work on them when nesesary. They say nothing has been done to it since they saved it from junk 18 years ago. When it runs it makes good parts. We dont have much to spend on it. :-(
I appreciate your help.
 
That would be an analog DC drive about 22-25 years old. I'd say its probably fully depreciated and also worn out.

The key question here is the motor. Is it in excellent condition? Has it been reconditioned recently? Are the brushes and rigging in good shape? If any of these answers is NO, and the hp is between 3 and 100hp, then its time to look at converting the machine to an AC motor and VFD.

If the answer to the motor questions is YES, then your cheapest option is to replace the drive with a new digital DC drive and keep the old motor.

I can do projects in the Saginaw area and upgrading old machines is my specialty. If you are interested in having me look at the job, contact me privately and I can schedule a visit.

But, either way, the cost of the job is determined by the motor, not the drive, in my opinion. If the hp is outside of the range mentioned above, then it would be even more important to look the job over to determine the best course.
 
Start checking all of your connections. Check the motor lead splices any terminals they go through and open up any contactors that are in the armature circuits. I had a 50 HP MaxPak doing the exact thing you are describing and it turned out to be a deteriorated contact on the armature contactor.

At the end of the day almost anything in that drive can be repaired from the SCR packs and gate controllers to the analog controller boards. We have 30 - 40 of these drives in our facility that have been in service since the early 80s and I have only heard of one that was beyond repair, and that was the result of a tach failure in conjunction with a tach loss failure. The component failures didn't hurt the drive but the 1600 HP armature that went through it on its way out of the building caused some serious damage.

There is a company out of Washington called Columbia Automation that specializes in Reliance drives and maintains a very good inventory of parts for them if you can track down what is causing the problem.
 
thanks

Well I was moved to another area for awhile to get them caught up. I passed the message on. But i think i can get back to this machine soon and try your advice. We are short handed so i move around a lot. Tjanks for your help. I will post an update after i get back to it. 🍻
 
I should be able to get back to this gem th or friday. I attached a couple pics for reference. I am thinking now the place to continue would be to take cover off side of motor and check connections and brushes. If there is nothing obvious inside does anybody know what readings i should have?

So far connections have been tight and in good condition. The oil presure switches check out ok also.

Thanks so much for your time/expertise

2012-01-04 15.05.14.jpg 2012-01-04 15.05.29.jpg
 
Look at the motor leads marking if they are still legible and post them. Some of these old motors had a thermal device inside them. It seems like they were numbered P1 & p2. I have no idea if this particular motor is like this.

Here's are links to a couple of manuals, probably not the same drive but it might help.
http://literature.rockwellautomation.com/idc/groups/literature/documents/um/mxpkp-um002.pdf
http://literature.rockwellautomation.com/idc/groups/literature/documents/um/mxpk-um001.pdf

PS. After reading in one of the manuals, it appears that the drive itself may have a overtemp detector, see page 5 and figure 2-14 in the 002 manual.
 
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Reading a little more of the manual mxpkt-um002, on pages 57 & 58 is a typical control wiring diagram.
Edit:
Link to a motor manual, page 2-6 (Table 2-7 & 2-8) shows a typical motor leads marking. Still may not help if this is the wrong motor in use.
http://www.baldor.com/support/literature_load.asp?ManNumber=MN602

You said things did not seem to be getting hot. Still, it wouldn't hurt to check the sensors. It is possible that the thermal sensing devices themselves might be going bad due to age.

You also mentioned oil pressure seems to be OK, maybe there is a low oil level switch that needs adjusting. I'm thinking that the oil could drain back to make the switch after it has been stopped off tor a while.
 
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