Ferrul crimping method

Dear all,

Recently, in one of our project, there is a queries raised by the consultant to change the ferrule crimping method. The crimping is done at the other side of the ferrule joint. Is there any standard of installation that the crimping must be at the side of the joint? Refer to the attach photo for the drawing of the crimping method from the other side of the ferrule joint (which is rejected).

If the ferrul is not a full circle where it is crimped I always use the pointy bit of the crimper to crimp on the slot so that the 2 edges crimp into the wire if you crimp the other way the 2 edges could open when crimped.

Alan

The crimp (pointy side of the tool) must be on the opposite side of the seam. In your drawing the bottom method is correct and the top one will cause loose connections. If you use the proper tool ie.. Sta-Kon pliers( http://www.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=WT111M )you will get mush better results. Unlike what Alan said, crimping this way will not allow the seam to open up while crimping. Crimping with the pointy side of the crimper on the seam will allow strands of your wire to escape the terminal, and generally have a looser connection which will fail sooner.

Mark Snodgrass said:

The crimp (pointy side of the tool) must be on the opposite side of the seam. In your drawing the bottom method is correct and the top one will cause loose connections. If you use the proper tool ie.. Sta-Kon pliers( http://www.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=WT111M )you will get mush better results. Unlike what Alan said, crimping this way will not allow the seam to open up while crimping. Crimping with the pointy side of the crimper on the seam will allow strands of your wire to escape the terminal, and generally have a looser connection which will fail sooner.

Click to expand...

I agree with Mark's comment.
This is Crimping-101 for crimp tools with the hump in it like the old T&B Sta-con pliers. Some of the newer crimpers do not have the hump in it, so the position of the ferrules seam doesn't matter.

Mark Snodgrass said:

The crimp (pointy side of the tool) must be on the opposite side of the seam. In your drawing the bottom method is correct and the top one will cause loose connections. If you use the proper tool ie.. Sta-Kon pliers( http://www.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=WT111M )you will get mush better results. Unlike what Alan said, crimping this way will not allow the seam to open up while crimping. Crimping with the pointy side of the crimper on the seam will allow strands of your wire to escape the terminal, and generally have a looser connection which will fail sooner.

Click to expand...

Dear Mark,

Thanks a lot for your information. i'll channel this to my client and discuss with them again. We've contacted the manufacturer for the terminal as well, pending their confirmation and reply. Will update you guys on the outcome.

I had a young apprentice and we had a small panel to terminate. 100 crimp on terminals. I showed him the what i say is the correct way (point on the opposite sideof the seam). I let him terminate the entire strip. I then pulled each wire a few where not crimped tight and pulled out. He got to terminate the panel again. Then he crimped a couple on with the point on the seam. He got to terminate the panel again. Years later I got a phone call from him. He was thinking me for teaching him how to terminate. He moved on to a large outfit and was happy that he was the only one that didn't have any terminations fail out of a group of 20 men.