Through Door Disconnects

Join Date
Nov 2008
Location
Indianapolis
Posts
152
I have a customer complaining about an Automation Direct through door disconnect SD1-016-RR with a SD-HRY Handle. It was mounted with din rail and not mounted directly to the sub panel.

I am quoting a new panel for this customer and was wondering if someone could recommend there favorite best choice for a through door disconnect.

This panel is going to be 24 x 24 and we are just switching 120 VAC (single phase) for this box. No 3 phase power at all.

I'd like to try to keep the price under $500 for the disconnect. The flange mount 1494F-N30 from Allen Bradley is over $600 and it requires a few other options that add up to over $900.
 
Hm. Read the reviews on that AD switch and it seems they are poor mechanically. Usually, AD stuff is adequate.

Anyway, I've used these and never had any issues either mechanical or electrical

Allen-Bradley 194E-E25-1753 Loadswitch, Front Mount 3Pole 25A, $43.76
Allen-Bradley 194L-HE6N-175 Switch Actuator, for 194E Loadswitch Red/Yellow Lockable, $14.35

Pricing is from a couple of years ago, but even AB it should still be pretty cheap. This is exactly the same style that you have now so it should be a direct swap, aside from drilling the backpanel for the switch. I wouldn't use a flange mounted disco and handle on the type of box you describe - does it even have a flange mount??

Paul T

 
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I have had the best luck using disconnects that have a shaft support. The switch itself seems OK for most brands - it is getting the handle and the shaft to line up after a little wear in the mechanism that caused problems. I think ABB and Cutler Hammer both have this available.
 
Hm. Read the reviews on that AD switch and it seems they are poor mechanically. Usually, AD stuff is adequate.

Anyway, I've used these and never had any issues either mechanical or electrical

Allen-Bradley 194E-E25-1753 Loadswitch, Front Mount 3Pole 25A, $43.76
Allen-Bradley 194L-HE6N-175 Switch Actuator, for 194E Loadswitch Red/Yellow Lockable, $14.35

Pricing is from a couple of years ago, but even AB it should still be pretty cheap. This is exactly the same style that you have now so it should be a direct swap, aside from drilling the backpanel for the switch. I wouldn't use a flange mounted disco and handle on the type of box you describe - does it even have a flange mount??

Paul T


Those Automation Direct switches are horrible, which is surprising because I like most of their stuff.
+1 on the AB
 
I have thought it would be better to have the disconnecting means completely outside the cabinet. That way everything should be dead (may require more than one disconnect of course).

The thru door operators are fault prone, have poor line up after wear as mentioned and most important in this era of LOTO and arc fault still leave energized power connectors on the disconnect.

Dan Bentler
 
I have thought it would be better to have the disconnecting means completely outside the cabinet. That way everything should be dead (may require more than one disconnect of course).

The thru door operators are fault prone, have poor line up after wear as mentioned and most important in this era of LOTO and arc fault still leave energized power connectors on the disconnect.

Dan Bentler

? Doesn't any disco have the same problem? What am I missing here?

Paul T
 
It's probably too late now with that customer, but the problem is that the disconnect you chose is too light weight. Automation Direct sells a Mersen line that is really substantial. See SVC30 with the HGPR4 pistol handle with 3 padlock provisions.
narlin
 
My panel shop uses the ABB disconnects; I'm working on a panel right now (36x24 with 120V incoming power) that has the OT40F3 disconnect and OH_J pistol-style handle.

Our shop mounts the disconnect on a sheetmetal standoff. They've done hundreds so they have a nice cheap and sturdy "U" shaped mount, and we use the short 10 cm actuating rod.
 
I have thought it would be better to have the disconnecting means completely outside the cabinet. That way everything should be dead (may require more than one disconnect of course).

The thru door operators are fault prone, have poor line up after wear as mentioned and most important in this era of LOTO and arc fault still leave energized power connectors on the disconnect.

Dan Bentler

Dan

They make panels as you describe. They are called the Sequester line from Hoffman. I use them here for all new projects. Helpful for arc flash and general safety.

The cost is minimal over a standard panel.
 
The last couple of years we have been using a through-door disconnect that uses cables in stead of a shaft for the connection between handle and the switch unit.
Absolutely brilliant.
Completely does away with the typical issues that you have with the shaft.
And you can mount the handle and switch base completely freely from each other.

I shall try to find some photos and what make it is if someone is interested.
 
I don't normally have trouble with the through door disconnects until an electrician who has not encountered one before comes along. I have had trouble with the cheaper ones, but haven't had any trouble once I stopped skimping on this part. I currently use the Allen Bradley rotary handles with a breaker and nfpa 79 style handle. It works fantastic although I must admit I am quite anal retentive about alignment and am generally in the shop when the electricians are laying out and cutting to mount the devices.
 
The last couple of years we have been using a through-door disconnect that uses cables in stead of a shaft for the connection between handle and the switch unit.
Absolutely brilliant.
Completely does away with the typical issues that you have with the shaft.
And you can mount the handle and switch base completely freely from each other.

I shall try to find some photos and what make it is if someone is interested.

Yep, I'm very interested. A manufacturer and part number would be good too!
 

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