Panel design

I dont think is proper to say "always use ferrules". It depends on the terminl, wire type, etc..and how carfull your panel builder is. I've seen many cases where the wire has broken off at the ferrule in some applications due to vibration.

In most cases where a ferrule might otherwise be used, we typically solder dip the wire. Basicly we have a small pot of liquid flux and American Beauty solder pot. This takes much less time and seems to be far more effective.
 
Solder pots??

elevmike said:
I dont think is proper to say "always use ferrules". It depends on the terminl, wire type, etc..and how carfull your panel builder is. I've seen many cases where the wire has broken off at the ferrule in some applications due to vibration.

In most cases where a ferrule might otherwise be used, we typically solder dip the wire. Basicly we have a small pot of liquid flux and American Beauty solder pot. This takes much less time and seems to be far more effective.
Click to expand...

Mike,

That is pretty cool. I have never used a solder pot before. Do you dip the wire into the molten solder or paint it on? What about safety? It is hard to determine scale from the image at American Beauty. I would be concerned about burning fingers from getting too close to the cast iron pot. Does it leave a thin or tihck coat of solder on the wire? I think that I may be interested in getting one to check out. I was seeing prices at around $300. Is this typical? I assume you have to use a special kind of solder. I could definitely see how this would be much faster than using ferrules. As far as wires breaking off from vibration, I have seen that happen with terminals also.

Thanks for the info.

Bob
 
Putting on ferrules doesn't take that long if you have the right tool. I've got a tool that takes a strip of ferrules and its a wire cutter / stripper / crimper all in one. The ferrules come in strips of about 30? or so and they load into the tool. Its very quick for putting on ferrules and can do any size up to 4mm (green ones?) I think.

:)

There shouldn't be a problem with ferrules coming off the wire as long as they are put on properly ie. the tool is calibrated correctly and the person operating it uses the right part of the die for that ferrule...
 
Johnny T said:
Putting on ferrules doesn't take that long if you have the right tool. I've got a tool that takes a strip of ferrules and its a wire cutter / stripper / crimper all in one. The ferrules come in strips of about 30? or so and they load into the tool. Its very quick for putting on ferrules and can do any size up to 4mm (green ones?) I think.

:)

There shouldn't be a problem with ferrules coming off the wire as long as they are put on properly ie. the tool is calibrated correctly and the person operating it uses the right part of the die for that ferrule...
Click to expand...

I just got a look at your sig. That is one of the reasons for my handle.
 
Bob,

Here's a link to the solder pot. http://www.action-electronics.com/amerbty.htm About $250.00. To be honest I had a friend that worked at American Beauty. We thought it might work well for babbiting elevator cable shakles, but then we went to wedgeclamps, So this is all we use it for now. Typically I just stop in at the local Radio Shack or welding supply and pick up a spool of solid core tin/copper solder..(lead free). The wire is cut, stripped, dipped onto the liquid flux, then dipped into the solder pot. I've had no safety problems but of course as with anything you must be carefull not to stick your fingers in the hot pot! :eek:

solder dip setup.jpg
 
A few things that I have learned the hard way over the last few years:

1. An enclosure can't be too big. You never know when you are going to need to add another component. I usually figure out how big an enclosure needs to be for my application, and then buy the box two or three sizes up.

2. You can't have too many spare terminal blocks. I install terminal blocks for every i/o point on the plc, whether used or not. I also install twice as many ground terminals as I need.

3. Use front loading cage clamp terminals. I have had to do one too many headstands to stick that 20 gauge wire in that hole that's 2 inches from the bottom of the enclosure that's 3 inches above the floor.

4. Mount the enclosure in a location that allows the door to be opened more than 45 degrees. banghead

Kevin
 
Johnny T said:
Putting on ferrules doesn't take that long if you have the right tool. I've got a tool that takes a strip of ferrules and its a wire cutter / stripper / crimper all in one. The ferrules come in strips of about 30? or so and they load into the tool. Its very quick for putting on ferrules and can do any size up to 4mm (green ones?) I think.
Click to expand...

I take it you have a fairly large tool budget? IOW, those production tools are quite expensive! (although very nice!)... (y)

I agree that installing ferrules doesn't add much time, especially with the time it saves the ONE time you have to find an errant strand. Worse, the damage that errant wire strand may cause.

I use a simple plier-type crimper. It's a front-loading style, which I find much more convenient to use than the typical side-loading crimper. It has 2 dies, which cover the range from 26AWG up to at least 10AWG. I bought it MANY years ago from Allied Electronics. I'm pretty sure it was from Altech, but they only sell full-cycle crimpers now. RS Components used to carry this tool, but I don't see it at their website. I only mention this because I'd love to get a new one. The one I have has seen better days... :(

beerchug

-Eric
 
I put a florescent light in every panel. Nice to open the door and there is light. I would rather have conduit that is a narrow width but rather deep. This keeps the foot print smaller. I try to keep 40% empty room in the conduit. My job specs usually call out whether the cabinet is to be NEMA 12, 4 or 4X. But I usually pick the size. I'm not authorized to throw money around on a cabinet that is oversized. I allow for 20% future expansion which is a typical spec. If mounting a door-mounted OIT, I put the centerline no higher than 60" from the floor.
 
I put a florescent light in every panel. Nice to open the door and there is light. I would rather have conduit that is a narrow width but rather deep. This keeps the foot print smaller. I try to keep 40% empty room in the conduit. My job specs usually call out whether the cabinet is to be NEMA 12, 4 or 4X. But I usually pick the size. I'm not authorized to throw money around on a cabinet that is oversized. I allow for 20% future expansion which is a typical spec. If mounting a door-mounted OIT, I put the centerline no higher than 60" from the floor.
Click to expand...

Sounds exactly like my train of thought! I especially like a door switch for the light. We use a light from Hoffman with the door switch mounted on it on about every job.

We also usually mount a fan on top of the cabinet, and a filter panel near the bottom on the front.
 

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