Help please

You should not need the 24v powers supply for the outputs, get rid of it..

Why get rid of it bright? According to this image the model used by the OP has relay outputs. Maybe the model you have experience with had transistors?

Well the plc is a 24v power supply in itself but I was told to use a different power supply because the built in ones are notoriouslt faulty

OK that makes sense, I havn't used that particular model myself. You need to find out what wattage the bulbs are. They could be the reason your PSU is now dead, your diagram does not show a fuse between the PSU output and relay contact commons. We used 24VAC bulbs in my last company and they would have been > 50W per bulb, never mind 7 at once! I would not recommend using the internal one as it likely has a very low power output too.

When wiring a system you should test it in stages. Even when I am wiring a control panel with thousands of wires I test each sub-circuit as soon as it is complete.

BeginnerAgg said:

Thankyou patrick. It must be why, I could have fried it, It worked before but it isnt now even after all outputs are disconnected. I will have to get a different one and try again. Thankyou all for your time, other than that by looking at my sketch does it look like I have it wired correctly? (Minus the power supply)

Click to expand...

The wiring diagram looks ok to me... as far as I can see it's a little hard to read upside down! That's why I was suggesting that you must find out the wattage of the bulbs, as the excessive load with no fuse to protect the device (PSU) could have killed it.

You can buy DIN rail terminals that house a fuse in a hinged door, I recommend using them especially when you are learning if you are not sure or make a mistake it is better to replace a $1 fuse than a $100 PSU.

Looks wired correctly. Remember contacts on that unit are rated for 1.2A make.

VDC+ should be tied to all contact VDC terminals and outputs tied to lamps. All COM should be tied together back to VDC- on power supply. Also maybe check the inrush current ratings if you are using fast acting fuses.

Yes, the wiring you showed is correct for the MicroLogix 1000 1761-L32BWA.

Because you are using an external 24 volt power supply, one thing to watch for on your next one is to be sure that wire you show on the top side, from terminal "DC COM" going to Power Supply "V -", does not accidently get connected to the adjacent internal 24V - terminal.

That would burn out a few things for sure - probably let the smoke out of the internal 24 volt power supply.