GS4 VFD and Motor draw EXCESSIVE current

he did say what happened they connected 480 v tor 240v VFD that would blow out the front end and caps at least.
As for powering up the main board to get the parameters out not going to work
the F7 and A1000 get the power for the controls boards from the DC Buss without power on the buss you would need the aux control power option.
 
If it were a PM motor, spinning the shaft by hand will produce a voltage on the windings.

The F7 was not capable of controlling PMAC motors, so I doubt it is that. This is likely an issue with some highly customized settings, especially with regard to magnetizing current. In custom motors this becomes critical. Standard off the shelf motors have magnetic flux profiles that are in relatively predictable ranges. Once you go off of those basic design criteria, as this motor is, the drive probably needs specific tuning above and beyond what is considered “typical”. This is the sort of thing that can normally be corrected by using a full rotating auto-tune procedure instead of the less accurate static (no rotation) tuning. But in this case your motor is sealed into the pump itself, I don’t think you can uncouple it. That’s where retrieving the old parameters would be very helpful. Let’s hope that works.
 
Thanks Guys,
At this point I am well and truly stumped.
I guess all I can do now is wait and see what the repair shop tells me.




I tried running at 7hz. The motor spun and drew 20 amps.
Pretty much what I figured. I let the vacuum bleed off and there was no change in the motor.

When I checked the net currents I was using my current probe not a clamp amp. ( The current probe is good to 100Khz)


I am going to be really torqued if it turns out that this is just a bad motor!!!!
 
You can power the main board from any F7 VFD. I could power it up on another working F7 VFD. Just to get the parameters. It sounds like the programming in the F7 is quite creative, in order to get this motor running right.
 
a question how many motor leads are coming out in the motor box 3 , 6 ,9, 12
or as some motors have a terminal block to make the motor connections
can you post a picture of it along with a connection diagram
you said the VFD was a 240 v and it was connected to 480 v and let the smoke out
did it ever run on the VFD or did it go out on the first install.
just trying to help you figure out what going on
 
So here is the update at this point
The original F7 VFD is toast. The cpu board was toasted as well as the entire output side of the drive. (Hooked up backward maybe??)


After MUCH f'ing with parameters I reset every thing to factory and started over.
When I setup the V/F the high end of the line was set to 75VAC at 60Hz.
But the low end was 10 VAC at 1.5 Hz
Once I set the low end to 0 vac at 0 hz things started to look better and I actually got it up to speed and running. The Laser even came ready. so YEA!!!


But...There is always a but...
I still don't think it is right. No matter what is draws about 30 amps.
No matter how fast I spin it or the accelerations.


Thanks guys for all of your input.


I think the biggest part of the problem was changing too many things at once. (And my client was in there fiddling with parameters when I was not there )
 
It looks like you figured it out, the 30 amp is well below the 50 FLA of the motor and you are drawing the vacuum you need for the machine
 

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