Here is the more complete update.
First off, I will say that after seeing it done once, I will for sure do it myself next time and save a bunch of money. That is the price you pay for not having the ability to do it yourself (either a shortage of knowledge, talent, time, materials, etc).
Secondly. The biggest issue that the guy faced was getting the pitless adapter loose. My well does not have the type that slides into a receiver. My adapter had an extension that screws out against the opposite wall of the casing and forces the sealing side tight against the casing wall. This takes a type of tool that for some reason the guy didn't have and instead went to lowes to buy conduit to make his own. He was mentioning the tool is $150 bucks and he thought that was stupid (I don't think he values his time very much).
Here is a link to the style of adapter that I have.
https://www.merrillmfg.com/shop/pitless-units-kits-and-adapters/smck-pitless-kit
You can see the the adapter has a pull pipe always connected that is supported by the top of the casing. This appears to be called a "clear well" adapter, since once it is pulled out with pump there is nothing sticking in the casing.
Once Well-Guy (WG) got that loosened with his homemade adapter, we pulled the pump.... And found that the issue was the riser pipe had come disconnected about 1/3 of the way up at a check valve. So that is why electrical readings showed the pump running, but no water was getting to the house. The original riser pipe had 2 check valves inline, used 1.25" poly, and had a rope safety line. It is likely the pump is fine (and I have it for a spare), but since we pulled it, we replaced it.
Original pump:
The original pump has a Pentek P43T0005A2 motor on it. I think it is a cap start cap run motor? It is 3 wires. I have attached a picture.
New Pump:
At first glance I was not thrilled to see a Flowise (not grundfos like told) pump.
http://flowisewater.com/sseries.html . The pump does have a Grundfos motor on it though. But, the motor is 2wire!!! After arguing a bit that a 3 wire is better due to not having a cap and switch in the motor, I agreed that it is fine (rock - ME - hardplace).
This motor is actually a RSIR (resistance start induction run) motor, so it has no need for a cap but does have a centrifugal switch. I never knew such a beast existed. Here is the specs from Grundfos.
https://product-selection.grundfos....&productnumber=79952102&replacementtype=quick
Installing new pump:
A few things that i noticed/questioned but I had no other choice.
1. WG did not install a seperate check valve in the riser, "You don't need it, the one in the pump will never fail". Ok again ROCK-ME-HARDPLACE. Besides there is a check valve at my tank and the previous issue was a connection failure at the check valve.
2. WG did not install a safety line. "You don't need it the way I tape the electrical cords". Honestly I would say that we did tape the **** out of the cords. The previous pump was pulled up by the wires so should be good.
The reinstall went super easy other than us miscounting the riser pipe length at first and hitting bottom. I now know how/what this involves and it's no issue to do it in the future. I may try and find a cheap/used adapter wrench to keep on hand though.
While the casing was clear, I zip-tied a wrench onto a 100' tape and measured the well:
74 feet from bottom of well to top of casing.
15ft from top of casing to water level (static level on that day, I'm sure it moves).
We set the pump around 65feet or so.