Help with Varipak 26758000 DC Drive

I have a Varipak CAMCO (Div. of Emerson Elec) PN 2675-8000 115V DC motor control (90V) and would like a setup/operations manual for it if anyone has one.

If anyone can help me with that it would be appreciated. I'll be checking back for answers, any docs or replies can be emailed to jacker at midmaine dot com.

Jack

http://www.camcoindex.com/

May be in their download section.

Thanks, I found that link too. I think I have an older model as it is not one that they have any docs for there.

I'm trying to put a DC motor on my drill press and I think I need some jumpers on the terminals on the drive controller but I'm having trouble figuring out the heiroglyphics on the terminal strip.

Can anyone identify the symbols on this strip for me?

http://users.adelphia.net/~jackerbes/misc/terminals.jpg

The last four terminals to the right are A1, A2, L1, and L2. I thinki the other six would be STRT, JOG, STP, RTN, +VDC, and COM but I'm baffled by the heiroglyphics and don't want to cook the drive figuring it out.

Jack

I believe the first two are a thermal overload (n.c.)

Next three appear to be stop/run/enable.

Hook up a couple switches & see what happens. (motor uncoupled)

I doubt you'll fry anything.

Good luck.

Left to right
1 - 2 is thermal overload N.C., should be jumpered if not used
3 - internal power output
3 to 4 thru N.C. Stop button (shows as a limit switch though)
3 to 5 thru N.O. Jog button
3 to 6 thru N.O. Start button
7 to motor
8 to motor
Swap 7 and 8 if necessary to obtain proper rotation.

This is my interpretation from working with many units like this but can not state I have worked with that particular unit.

The control section 3-6 does not need a COM terminal and would surprise if it has reversing capability, at least I am not seeing it from what is being shown.

Just in case, here is a page showing basic symbols: http://www.patchn.com/symbols.htm

I have an old Varipak Manual that appears to be older than what you have but this should help:


http://www.patchn.com/files/norm/Varipak.pdf

Thanks for the great responses guys! I think I can figure it out now.

I got your forum noted too nOrM, you are a fellow Mainer too, right?

And my compliments to this forum too. Another constructive, class act, forum. How did we ever get anything done without them?

Jack

jacker said:

you are a fellow Mainer too, right?

Click to expand...

Well, There is a big body of water near Chicago but we don't have any lobsters, nor'easters or lighthouses...

Glad we helped you.

"There is a big body of water near Chicago..."

Oops, I guess I misread that. Chi Town is nice though, I must have gone through O'hare 100 times in 26 years in the Navy.

I Thought I saw something there about Maine. Very enlightening site there at www.patchn.com at any rate.

I'm in the golden years and messing around with stuff. I'm more a machinist than electrician and this was an endeavor to get a better drill press out of a used Reliance DC motor and a controller I got on the cheap from eBay.

But I got the controller going last night thanks to you guys. I jumpered 1 to 2 (thermal sensor), and 3 to 6 and it fired right up and everything worked normally. My controller does not have a Reverse capability, only a Run/Stop switch and that's all I really need.

The 24V source is running a little weak, it is only at 19VDC, and the motor was only running at about 1,200 RPM (1,725 RPM motor) with the Speed trimpot at max and I am only getting 55 VDC out of the controller.

I have the motor speed adjustment maxed and I guess that's all I'm going to get out of it. The only other adjustments on the controller are IR Comp (set at 15% or so) and a Hi/Lo jumper by the transformer, that is on Lo and I assume Hi is for the 240V model.

It is clearly marked a 115V controller and the fuses are sized right for that (15A) so I'm thinking maybe one side of AC to DC power supply is dead or something. Does that sound plausible that something like that would reduce the output voltage? I double checked all the connections, input voltage, the motor is turning easy by hand, etc. All the simple stuff.

I can get all the speed I need I need out of it for a drill press by using a larger step on the four step drive pulleys. It will be nice to be able to get spindle speeds slower than 500 RPM. I'm a old school kind of machinist not a modern production guy. Slow and steady with lube and long tool life has always been my preference.

Jack

Must have been some shallow draft boats to go through O'Hare.

By the luck of the draw, I wound up in a mostly shore duty rating and kept getting flown from place to place. Which had a lot to do with why I hung around so long.

Had fun, made Chief, became a dinosaur, went away, and the pension shows up like clockwork every month. Life is good...

Jack

Cheers to that. 30 more years and maybe I can retire...

Andy

I've been watching this thread with interest because I have a passion for converting drill presses to varispeed.

jacker said:

I can get all the speed I need I need out of it for a drill press by using a larger step on the four step drive pulleys. It will be nice to be able to get spindle speeds slower than 500 RPM.
Jack

Click to expand...

This may not fit your application, but I have found it is better to dispense with the step pulleys and put a fixed set of pulleys in their place. This way I was able to use the smallest dual groove pulley I could find for the motor then use the largest dual groove pulley I could fit into the guard. The use of a dual groove pulley will help stop the belt slippage. Whith this setup I'm able to drill a 1.5" hole in steel at 30 rpm. I should mention I'm using a 3 phase 3 horse power @1750 set up for 240 volts and a AD G2 3hp single phase to 3 phase inverter. This is a far cry from what harbor freight installed (1.5 hp rated with a 16 gauge 120 volt plugin go figure!).

jacker said:

My controller does not have a Reverse capability, only a Run/Stop switch and that's all I really need.

Click to expand...

I thought so too! Untill I started to think about tapping with my drill press. So I used an unused flange from the step pulley on the quill shaft to make an encoder star wheel. The groove is never used because I never have to change belt locations any more. Then I hung a couple of proxes so the output was in quadrature. The proxes are input to a DL06 ( high speed inputs). By using an up down counter I'm able to tap then have the motor reverse to back the tap out. With this setup I'm able to tap holes faster (time wise) than I can drill them. Here's a pic of my tap holder

jacker said:

Very enlightening site there at www.patchn.com at any rate.

Click to expand...

The sight is run by Ron Doran who also contributes here. He has an ftp site which is where I uploaded the camco manual.

... and yes, there is a lot of great stuff there.

<snip>
..use of a dual groove pulley will help stop the belt slippage..

Slippage is used for overload protection at my house. :>)

..I'm able to drill a 1.5" hole in steel at 30 rpm...

I don't do anything that big and run out of drill bits at about 1" anyway. I could probably do a 1" hole in steel if I did it in 1/16" increments.

Some of that old Enco stuff looks like good stuff now when you compare it to the Chinese copies.

My drill press is an older Champion 13" out of Taiwan and its not too bad. Good castings and stuff. But a male JT-3 spindle so I can't use any of the MT-2 and MT-3 accessories I have laying around. I moved from CA to ME about 6 years ago and left all my machines behind.

<snip>
..With this setup I'm able to tap holes faster (time wise) than I can drill them. Here's a pic of my tap holder...

I liked floating tapping heads on a drill press, that was reliable setup. I like that "organic non skid" all over your drill press. But it makes it a little hard to move the table doesn't it? :>)

Jack