Thru-Door Disconnects Tool

Phil Buchanan · Jan 28, 2016

I really don't like thru-door disconnects at all and almost always use a flange type unless there are no other options but today we had to build a panel with a thru-door disconnect and I used one of the tools in the video below and it makes all the difference.

I have used almost every other method there is to do these but this makes it a snap and it's made by Schneider but you can use it on any disconnect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCx1Yr8A1gc

ASF · Jan 28, 2016

The only thing I don't understand is, how the **** has nobody thought of this before?

genius!

jimtech67 · Jan 28, 2016

very cool

Tharon · Jan 28, 2016

Wow.

I have a few laser devices around that came from miter saws for lining up cuts. I never thought about using them like this.

I'll have to see what they cost.

Phil Buchanan · Jan 29, 2016

Tharon said:
I'll have to see what they cost.

I picked it up for 86 dollars and some change.

adisharr · Jan 29, 2016

I simply cut the rod to the correct length, insert it into the disconnect hole, color the tip with a grease pen and lightly hit the rod with the door. The mark in the door is the center. Apply template and drill. Takes me 5-10 mins to install with this method. We also have another rod where we sharpened the tip to mark the center.

Tom Jenkins · Jan 29, 2016

For me the problem with through the door disconnects wasn't getting the holes drilled right. It was the eventual droop in the rod that made it hard to get the rod into the hole in the operator when closing the door.

boneless · Jan 29, 2016

Tom, keep it clean...

Lol

Firejo · Jan 29, 2016

Pretty cool but that panel and connecting rod seamed way to easy to cut.

mendonsy · Jan 29, 2016

I agree with Tom on that. You typically have to fudge the hole pattern down by about 1/8" to 3/16" to get everything to work in the real world.

Firejo · Jan 29, 2016

It looks to me like the collar used as the securing nut is tapered to align the connecting rod even if it's got a "droop".

jraef · Jan 29, 2016

Firejo said:
It looks to me like the collar used as the securing nut is tapered to align the connecting rod even if it's got a "droop".

Yeah, but the older it gets, the more it droops, until eventually it no longer goes in the hole...

Old school low tech version, drafting T-Square. Install the shaft, run the T-square along the top, mark the shaft position, do the same for the side, close the door, transfer the marks.

Tom Jenkins · Jan 30, 2016

I guess this thread should have a blue background. Sorry about that!

Aabeck · Jan 30, 2016

To compensate for the inevitable droop, since the hole in the door can't be moved, why don't disconnect manufacturers make the body of the disconnect with a height adjustment? As the years go by simply move the body up as needed.

BryanG · Jan 30, 2016

Droop proof your door interlocked isolator!
I got frustrated with the droop and so mount isolators on DIN rail, on 8mm screwed rod. If there are other bits with the isolators the droop can still bend the 8mm rod, so I add stabilisers. In case they bend the box when they mount it, there is room for adjustment in three dimensions.

Thru-Door Disconnects Tool

Phil Buchanan

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ASF

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jimtech67

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Tharon

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Phil Buchanan

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adisharr

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Tom Jenkins

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boneless

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Firejo

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mendonsy

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Firejo

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jraef

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Tom Jenkins

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Aabeck

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BryanG

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