... I'm still betting on leakage current ...
Thanks, Ron Doran,
apparently my search for “G3FD” didn’t work because the catalog uses the term “G3F/FD” for the model in question ...
I’m still guessing that our old nemesis “leakage” current is causing Ken’s problem ... and not only do we have the regular-old leakage current of this solid-state device to contend with ... the catalog (on page 5 of 8) contains the statement “Snubber circuit absorbs external surges” ... I take that to mean that this little bitty solid-state relay has a built-in suppressor circuit internally connected across its output terminals ... in my experience, these types of circuits always seem to increase the amount of leakage current ... based on all of this, I’d say that Ken might need to go right back to the old tried-and-true electromechanical type of relay to get his machine back to working normally ...
of course, a properly sized "bleeder" resistor might also take care of the problem ... here is a quick troubleshooting trick ... try installing an incandescent lamp bulb (of the proper 24 volts rating) in parallel with the "other machine's" input ... then test the operation again ... my guess is that now when the relay is ON then the lamp and the "other machine's" input will also be ON ... when the relay is OFF then the lamp and the "other machine's" input will also be OFF ... in other words, the "phantom signal" problem should be solved ... if this works, then the lamp is actually acting just like a simple "bleeder resistor" and my "leakage current" hunch would seem to be pretty well on target ...