Busted lamp

theripley · Mar 18, 2010

Hi,

We have installed an error-proofing system (pokayoke, as they call it in japanesse) last December. Since then, we have replaced the tower light lamp over three times (meaning the lamp seems to be busted almost every month). It seems to me that their power supply has some problem that causes the lamp to be busted.

I am thinking of connecting a resistor in line with the lamp but a 10 W, 220 Vac lamp needs a 10 W resistor, which is bulky. Is there any other way in correcting this problem other than putting a bulky resistor?

I am hoping I get economical answers.
Thanks

rdrast · Mar 18, 2010

Put in an LED lamp.
They are made as plug in replacements, from 6VDC on up through 240VAC.

RexIR · Mar 18, 2010

LED Lamps

Why dont you switch over to LED Lamps? They are cost effective, Long life and Rugged compared to Usual Indication lamps.

Cheers

Rex

gbradley · Mar 18, 2010

Yes, LED is the way to go.
I'm surprised that they still offer bulb type stack lights.
I don't imagine they sell too many these days.
The savings in price is pretty much eaten up the first time a bulb needs changing.

mordred · Mar 18, 2010

you might also try an inline capacitor to smooth out any spikes

PeterW · Mar 18, 2010

poka(=minor error) - yoke(=proofing, preventing)

TheStarr · Mar 18, 2010

LED is an option, but the stadard bulb has been around for many years and been reasonably reliable. There is obviously a problem with the system.

A 'deeper dive' into your system may allow us to help fix it.

So far I see that it is a 10w bulb on a 220vac system.

My questions are:
1. Is the bulb rated for 220vac? (not 110v)
2. What switches the lamp on and off? A switch? A relay? What kind of relay?
3. How often is the bulb being turned on and off? Do you blink it on and off?
4. Is the socket rated for a 10w bulb?
5. Is the light powered off the same power circuit as a highly inductive load? Like a big motor, etc.

Answers to some or all of these questions would help us a bunch.

PLCRookie · Mar 18, 2010

Check that the light stack is not experiencing vibration from the mounting location, as I have found that can cause premature failure as well.

theripley · Mar 18, 2010

TheStarr said:
My questions are:
1. Is the bulb rated for 220vac? (not 110v)

Yes, it is rated 220 Vac.

TheStarr said:
2. What switches the lamp on and off? A switch? A relay? What kind of relay?

The green lamp is the one always being busted since it is ON majority of the time. We use two stack tower lights, one green (RUN) & red (ALARM).

TheStarr said:
3. How often is the bulb being turned on and off? Do you blink it on and off?

The green lamp turns ON when the system is running without error, once error is detected it turns OFF while red lamp is now being ON.

TheStarr said:
4. Is the socket rated for a 10w bulb?

Yes.

TheStarr said:
5. Is the light powered off the same power circuit as a highly inductive load? Like a big motor, etc.

We have isolated power supply for our system, a C.O.

theripley · Mar 18, 2010

mordred said:
you might also try an inline capacitor to smooth out any spikes

I know this sounds so naive but what capacitor type & value do you usually use on this kind of application (220 Vac, 10 W load)?

Gil47 · Mar 19, 2010

theripley said:
I know this sounds so naive but what capacitor type & value do you usually use on this kind of application (220 Vac, 10 W load)?

If it was a DC application a capacitor may work but as you say on 220 volts AC the capacitor is not an option

If the stack could be made to operate on 24 volts the lamp filament would be more robust and would last longer
but the LED lamp suggested by other would be my choice

sthompson · Mar 19, 2010

theripley said:
I know this sounds so naive but what capacitor type & value do you usually use on this kind of application (220 Vac, 10 W load)?

As Gil47 said, a Capacitor across the bulb isn't going to work to well with AC. As an alternative, you could use an MOV rated for around 250VAC if you think it is being spiked.

Vibration is also a likely suspect as mentioned.

LED Bulbs do last longer, but are more expensive. Worth it on a Beacon or Pilot that flashes. That eats bulbs very quickly.

Stu....

Goody · Mar 19, 2010

How many electricians does it take to replace a light bulb ?

mordred · Mar 19, 2010

yeah I was thinking of a 24 volt hook up when I mentioned the capacitor. The reason being is that I had converted all my stacklamps to 24 volt LED types but thats due to My high wash down envirement.

Clay B. · Mar 19, 2010

Depending on the socket you may be able to directly replace the incadecent with a LED lamp. This would prevent having to change the fixture.

From what you are saying I doubt it is a power issue but more likely a vibration issue.

My guess on the power side is your talking about a @40 VAC system. I would check for residual voltage between ground and the netural going to the lamp. If it is high enough it can cause the lamp to burn out quickly.

While the LED lamp is more expensive than the incadecent, long term it may be cheaper.

Busted lamp

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