control panel building

[rsdoran]

I should have said SLUG BUSTER SELF CENTERING, the slug breaks into 2 peices and falls out. I have been using slug busters for a long time.

I have been using drill/tap combos for awhile, I have not had one break in the hole. They are designed for high speed operation so I just drill with them.

Another tool to consider is a hole deburring tool which can expedite hole cleanup.

There was a mention of making square holes too, there are punches that can cut square holes up to 5 inches (maybe larger).

 

[CroCop]

The drill/tap combos work extremely well with just a little bit of tapping fluid.

 

[rsdoran]

The drill/tap combos work extremely well with just a little bit of tapping fluid.

Thanks, another detail I forgot to mention.

 

[CroCop]

You'd be suprised how many electricians don't respect the drill/tap fluid, but it makes all the difference in the world.

 

[Ed01]

I also use these kind of drills, also from Greenlee

 

[rta53]

I like using Greenlee hole punches because they make a clean hole but hate how difficult it can be to clear the slug. Does anyone have any tricks for making that easier? I have trouble geting the shop guys to buy into using Greenlee's because of this. They all say that is is much faster to use a hole saw and deburring tool.

I absolutely despise hole saws in metal.

And if you drill a large enough pilot hole, removing slugs from a greenlee punch is a piece of cake. In fact I would say it's easier than getting slugs out of the hole saw. The 2 main things to remember when using punches in order to easily remove the slugs are, drill the proper size pilot hole and secondly, don't try to pry the slug out like you would from a hole saw but instead push the slug toward the bottom of the die.

 

[rsdoran]

And if you drill a large enough pilot hole, removing slugs from a greenlee punch is a piece of cake.

That is true but when drill/punching for pushbuttons, switches etc it can offset the alignment. All my round hole punches are slug busters now and in the future I will probably purchase some of the Self Centering type.

 

[testsubject]

I must say, I really like the slug buster. It solves the problem of the sticking slug...

 

[rta53]

That is true but when drill/punching for pushbuttons, switches etc it can offset the alignment. All my round hole punches are slug busters now and in the future I will probably purchase some of the Self Centering type.

I understand what you are saying. If the hole is a little big it does take a little more effort to align the punch. However what I was referring to is when the pilot hole is so small that the slug starts to bind on the bolt as you are punching the hole.

I would like to try some of the self-centering punches too.

 

[TConnolly]

When punching switch holes, I'm not sure I would use the self centering punch. It looks like it requires that the hole be drilled exactly on center and be perfectly round, something that does not always happen in sheet metal. I lay out a grid on the panel and use the alignment marks on the die to align it to the grid, that way the hole is centered over where I intended it to be, independent of how the sheet metal drilled in reality. Using the die alignment marks also allows you to drill a larger hole for easy slug removal. Slug busters are the way to go also.

This is what I use for buttons. It makes the keyway at the same time.
http://www.mygreenlee.com/products/det.cfm?id=811&upc=60238

I also use step drills when drilling into sheet metal.

I like the drill/tap tools. I'm going to have to get me some of those.

 

[rta53]

I have been using drill/tap combos for awhile, I have not had one break in the hole. They are designed for high speed operation so I just drill with them.

Where do you buy these?

 

[Atlascycle]

I like using Greenlee hole punches because they make a clean hole but hate how difficult it can be to clear the slug. Does anyone have any tricks for making that easier? I have trouble geting the shop guys to buy into using Greenlee's because of this. They all say that is is much faster to use a hole saw and deburring tool.

BTW, I also agree with Rube. How durable are the drill/tap tools?

Bob

I have only used a 10-32 tap drill and for taping back plates I have not had any problems with breakage. But I have also done quite a bit of power taping with a hand drill and learned the hard way.

 

[JohnW]

We use Greenlee punches too, had a bit of trouble recently with a 120mm hole punch but we have resolved that now by getting the hydraulic draw bar and adaptor.

For our MCCs we get the holes punched by the steelwork manufacturer by CNC machine.

Here is the sort of MCC we do.

By the way here are some good links for control panel builders



http://www.eiema.org.uk/BI_publications.htm
http://www2.schneider.co.uk/seweb2/internet/literature.nsf/luLibrary?open

http://www.gambica.org.uk/

 

[Eric Nelson]

I like using Greenlee hole punches because they make a clean hole but hate how difficult it can be to clear the slug. Does anyone have any tricks for making that easier?

Yes... Buy the Greenlee 'slugbuster' punches. They chop the slug into two pieces, which simply fall out 99% of the time...

EDIT: Silly me didn't read the last page of posts...

Greenlee makes Self Centering Hole Punches, this I did not realize.

These are cool! Now I know what to ask Santa for!... :nodi:



-Eric

 

[Eric Nelson]

More on centering punches...

The Greenlee punches have a tiny mark at the quadrants around the circumference which can be used to center the punch when hole location is critical. You'll need a bright light and a magnifying glass, but they ARE there.



-Eric