Almost all of our Buss Off conditions are due to the connections in the cable building up resistance (mostly in Control Boss, rarely in DeviceNet Thick).
The way that I check for this is to disconnect the power to the network and remove one terminating resistor. I then put an ohmmeter on my CAN-HI and CAN-LOW wires and see what the resistance is.
A "Good" network will read around 124 ohms for a short-ish network, while a longer one will read around 128 ohms. If you see around 140 ohms (on a Fluke meter anyway), and the resistance keeps going up rather than down, you probably don't have all of the power off on the network.
Go through the entire network and open and close each connection (and clean with contact cleaner if you so desire). When you get to a Hi-Z one you will see it (when the resistance goes away). Hi-Z being in the order of anywhere between 1 ohms on up (but usually 4 ohms on up will cause a problem).
An additional problem that appears to be Control Boss specific is what I call the "Wandering resistance" problem. After removing the power and one of the terminating resistors and then connecting the meter, you will see it inch up in resistance from the 120's, to the 130's, to the 140's, on up.
This is due to a bad Tee and you will see the network resistance jump up when you tap on the bad tee (in the case of our ovens, when you walk nearby). This seems to be a heat-related issue, and replacing the tees is your only recourse.
This is our "temporary" fix (temporary being anywhere from 6 weeks to better than a year) and fixes 95% of our Buss Off problems (the other 5% being a mix of power supplies and the tees).
In one instance the problem was installation related. The DeviceNet thick was terminated using field connectors and the contractors who did the job did very poorly. We have had a few power supply issues as well.
I don't even bother hooking up a scope anymore since I know that "cycling the Tees" (as we refer to it here) is usually going to do the trick.
Good luck!