How to Mount DIN Rail

[Tim Ganz]

I have to mount a lot of slotted din rail and just ordered today.

What is the best type and size of screw to use? Course or fine thread?

I am thinking maybe button head with Phillips or allen head but which would be best?

What is the ideal machine thread?

Should I use a flat washer with it?

Should I use a lock washer with it?

 

[lfe]

If you are going to fasten it to a metal sheet then with aluminum rivets it mounts quickly, also the heads of the rivets barely protrude

 

[drbitboy]

Should I use a flat washer with it?

Should I use a lock washer with it?

I dunno about the rest, but if getting to the nuts would be awkward in the final installation (e.g. if this is a control panel mounted against a wall), then drilling and tapping the backing to which the DIN rail is attached may prevent your name from being spoken ill of.

 

[controlconcepts]

Typically just use standard 8/32 machine screws and flat washers drilled and tapped to The Back panel. To yourself a favor and buy drill bit & tap combo bits. Locking washers on more advanced panels such as susceptible to high vibrations.

 

[Mas01]

Has the panel you want to mount the rail to got any pre-drilled (threaded?) holes? Or is it plain sheet metal? Or something else?

 

[joseph_e2]

I dunno about the rest, but if getting to the nuts would be awkward in the final installation (e.g. if this is a control panel mounted against a wall), then drilling and tapping the backing to which the DIN rail is attached may prevent your name from being spoken ill of.

**WILL** prevent your name from being spoken ill of...for that, at least.

Also, avoid self-drilling/tapping screws.

I drill/tap the hole, typically 10-32 and use either button socket head or slotted pan head screws with flat and lock washers. The exact fastener you use isn't critical as long as it's low enough profile that the components on the DIN rail can slide freely over it.

Rivets...have you ever seen them loosen over time? That's one of my concerns with them, other than not having the equipment to do it and not doing enough volume to justify its purchase.

 

[JeremyM]

Generally drill and tap.

I prefer the M6 bolt size, since it aligns elegantly with DIN rail interior slots (6.2mm).

The rare situation I would use nuts on the backside of a panel is in something mobile, to mitigate the risk of stripping taps due to shock. I had the panel in my Pelican rig laser cut with smooth holes, and I ended up using M6 surface mount nuts with a touch of blue Loctite.

https://www.mcmaster.com/98007A318

 

[JeffKiper]

I use 8/32 truss head screws. The strut we have used for year was 7.5 mm tall. We are just now changing ot 15 mm tall strut. This allows for adding the devices to the rail a little easier because its a taller rail.

 

[the_msp]

5mm thru hole (I waterjet/laser my chassis), 4.8 alu rivet, pneumatic riveter... fast

 

[BryanG]

I mentioned this in another thread and one member told me that his customer would never accept self tapping screws. But I am never the sort to give in easily When I first started using these you could only get the Taptite version, now other manufacturers do the same thing. This is the Taptite manufacturer website:
https://taptite.com/products/taptite-2000
It is a self tapper but it doesn't cut a thread, it rolls it. There are no metal cutting produced as you drive in the screw. The tite bit refers to the fact that generally you don't need a lock washer. You can see below that unless you are sharp eyed you won't see a difference between standard and taptite (thread rolling) screws, size shown is M5.
You drill a hole, drive in the screw, and that is it. I struggle to understand why anyone would still insist on drilling, tapping and having to add an anti-vibration washer.

 

[lfe]

Rivets in 5mm holes stay strong, spaced no more than 200mm apart.

Hand riveters are cheap but better to select one big enough for 5mm. The smallest ones are only good for no more than 3mm.

For a little more you can get a pneumatic one.

 

[ScottTheEngineer]

These look good. Thanks for the idea.I always drilled and tapped.

 

[arpus4KM]

10-32 screws
10-32 washers

10-32 combination drill/tap hex bit (buy a 10-20 pack)

12 inch sliding square

Automatic center punch (decent quality, not a cheapo from northern tool).



that should be all you need aside from a good layout.

don't go 8-32 or 10-24. 8s are too small, and 24tpi is not enough threads for thinner surfaces.

 

[JeremyM]

Metriiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiic. (DIN, after all)

 

[johnd_125]

10-32 pan head screws with either phillips or combo head. Spaced every 6-10". The rail I use has .200" wide slots so no flat washers needed.

I tried the combo drill/taps and didn't like them. If you drill at proper drill speed, you are much too fast for tapping. When you break through, you better let off the feed force quick or your tap is likely to snap.

I prefer the tap drill in one cordless drill, set at high speed and a second cordless drill with the tap at low speed.

YMMV...