How to Mount DIN Rail

[Mas01]

I mentioned this in another thread and one member told me that his customer would never accept self tapping screws. But I am never the sort to give in easily When I first started using these you could only get the Taptite version, now other manufacturers do the same thing. This is the Taptite manufacturer website:
https://taptite.com/products/taptite-2000
It is a self tapper but it doesn't cut a thread, it rolls it. There are no metal cutting produced as you drive in the screw. The tite bit refers to the fact that generally you don't need a lock washer. You can see below that unless you are sharp eyed you won't see a difference between standard and taptite (thread rolling) screws, size shown is M5.
You drill a hole, drive in the screw, and that is it. I struggle to understand why anyone would still insist on drilling, tapping and having to add an anti-vibration washer.

This is a cracking idea - I'll be using this next time.

 

[BryanG]

You can get them from RS, they have other sizes:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/self-tapping-screws/4831252
You drill a bit larger than if you were going to Tap the hole. For M5 you would drill at 4.2 to Tap, but 4.5 for the thread making screw.

 

[JesperMP]

I mentioned this in another thread and one member told me that his customer would never accept self tapping screws. But I am never the sort to give in easily When I first started using these you could only get the Taptite version, now other manufacturers do the same thing. This is the Taptite manufacturer website:
https://taptite.com/products/taptite-2000
It is a self tapper but it doesn't cut a thread, it rolls it. There are no metal cutting produced as you drive in the screw. The tite bit refers to the fact that generally you don't need a lock washer. You can see below that unless you are sharp eyed you won't see a difference between standard and taptite (thread rolling) screws, size shown is M5.
You drill a hole, drive in the screw, and that is it. I struggle to understand why anyone would still insist on drilling, tapping and having to add an anti-vibration washer.

Very interesting ! Thanks for the link.
If it is used in the typical mounting plate, and the plate is zink-galvanized, does it also work ? My experience is that the hard zink layer is the problematic bit.

You can get them from RS, they have other sizes:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/self-tapping-screws/4831252
You drill a bit larger than if you were going to Tap the hole. For M5 you would drill at 4.2 to Tap, but 4.5 for the thread making screw.

Thanks for the tip !

 

[BryanG]

If it is used in the typical mounting plate, and the plate is zink-galvanized, does it also work

All the plates I get now seem to be the zinc plated types. I find that nowadays the steel isn't always consistent, there seems to be harder and softer patches in the plates, these are Schneider or Rittal. I am hoping this isn't a 'when I was younger things were better made' steel was more steelier . Also the screw doesn't cut a thread, it rolls it, that may affect the interaction with the zinc layer.

I get an occasional screw that is a bit tight, and if I don't reverse out, get another screw, and try again it can break a screw head off, or strip a thread. But then again, if you aren't patient with Taps you can break them. Also the same as with Taps, you need to be reasonably close to perpendicular to the plate, the spec sheet gives the tolerances. I have no idea when I started using Taptites, my brain doesn't store history like that, I would guess at 30 years ago, so they aren't anything new. I will point out that I have no financial interest in these screws, this isn't an advert

 

[I_Automation]

I use 10-32 pan head phillip's with a flat washer. EDIT: Don't use socket head screws - you will find where that screw head is is exactly where you need to put a component or terminal that won't fit now because of the screw head protruding out unless you start grinding the back of the component.


As for self tapping screws - they would be OK, my hatred is for self drilling "tek's" - avoid ever using those.


Also, to meet USA code if the DIN rail is going to be used for ground then regardless of how many screws you use to mount it (Even if you put one screw every slot) you have to add one more screw for bonding. I usually put a screw every 6 inches and add the bonding screw in the slot next to one of the end screws.

 

[arpus4KM]

10-32 pan head screws with either phillips or combo head. Spaced every 6-10". The rail I use has .200" wide slots so no flat washers needed.

I tried the combo drill/taps and didn't like them. If you drill at proper drill speed, you are much too fast for tapping. When you break through, you better let off the feed force quick or your tap is likely to snap.

I prefer the tap drill in one cordless drill, set at high speed and a second cordless drill with the tap at low speed.

YMMV...

ahh yeah, well I should say that the better drill/drivers these days have a self tapper mode, it automatically senses loss of torque so once you break through it automatically slows down during the same trigger pull.

Drilling into material for full speed and once torque breakthrough happens it slows down for what would be a self tapper tapping, but works well for the tap part of those drill/tap hex bits.