Pc 1100

[Lancie1]

I noticed that you can remove the terminal block from the Input Modules, so that you do not have to disconnect all the wires to replace the module. Be sure to turn off all power before removing the terminal block.

I have a extra 1005 input and I'm pretty sure it's not that.

I like optimism, but do you have some reason to think that the NL-1005 Input Module is still good?

 

[Marro13]

still no power to my expansion rack

I replaced my nlre-1009 expansion rack, and i still can't get power to my input module. Is there any way to test if I'm getting power from my rack bus expander to this rail. It is connected by a communication cable?

 

[jrwb4gbm]

I'm just wondering if you can get online with the plc. If you can, maybe you could see if the input data is possibly being processed even if the module doesn't appear to be working.

Edit:
I was also wondering if the RBE Rack Buss Expansion module (NL-1076) in the top rack may have failed.

 

[Marro13]

The Nl-1076 is my last option since I've changed everything else so hopefully that will solve the problem.

 

[jrwb4gbm]

Just in case you haven't found it, here is a link to software that should work. There is probably some info on building a programming cable since it uses a RS232 port. I will try to find the cable info.

Link:
http://pps2.com/files/nl/

Edit:
The programming cable info is found at the link below.
Link:
http://pps2.com/smf/index.php/topic,2.0.html

Here is one more link you might find useful.
Link:
http://pps2.com/smf/index.php/board,2.0.html

 

[Marro13]

pc 1100 westinghouse

I am finally getting all my input and output modules to receive info. i have 3 out of the 5 components moving which leaves me to believe that the input that are coming in from the sensors are set up wrong. i have a digram from the manual on how the sensors are suppose to be wired but i fell like i might be doing something wrong. I've attached 2 pics of what the manual tells me weather its suppose to be wired open or closed. if anyone can give me advice on why some diagrams show the open is up and some show down. is there a way to wire these sensor to read what the diagram is telling me. the sensors I'm using are pepper fuchs nj20+u1+e2 and its a 2 wire set up. thanks for any help

 

[jrwb4gbm]

The sensors output that you posted will be open (false or not energized) when no product or flag is in the sensing field. You will need to get a different model sensor if you need the sensors output to be closed (true or energized)when no product or flag is in the sensing field. Looking at picture -1 it would seem you need both types. Your attached pictures seem to suggest using mechanical limit switches instead of inductive proximity devices such as the pepper fuchs nj20+u1+e2. Is there a need to use the proximity devices instead of mechanical type switches?

 

[Marro13]

I know that they replaced all the old sensors with new ones which might be why this system is acting the way it is.

 

[Marro13]

the new sensors they used on all are nj20+u1+e2

 

[Lancie1]

...if anyone can give me advice on why some diagrams show the open is up and some show down.

Mechanical limit, Level, and Pressure switches often are shown that way to indicate which way the parameter is moving when the switch is operated. For example, your Tramper is shown in the defined "normal" or Tramper UP position, so Limit Switch LS3B will be in the operated or Closed position (a mechanical arm or actuator has moved upward and closed the LS3B switch contact. So then LS3A at the bottom of the Tamper (in the defined "normal" or UP position) should be open or unoperated (a mechanical arm or actuator has moved up and off of the switch, allowing the switch contacts to spring open).

 

[Marro13]

Mechanical limit, Level, and Pressure switches often are shown that way to indicate which way the parameter is moving when the switch is operated. For example, your Tramper is shown in the defined "normal" or Tramper UP position, so Limit Switch LS3B will be in the operated or Closed position (a mechanical arm or actuator has moved upward and closed the LS3B switch contact. So then LS3A at the bottom of the Tamper (in the defined "normal" or UP position) should be open or unoperated (a mechanical arm or actuator has moved up and off of the switch, allowing the switch contacts to spring open).

The tramper is one of my working components. The sensors have 2 lights yellow and green. With these sensors LS3B i have the wires in the 1st and 2nd slots which is closed and both lights are on when metal is in front of it. LS3A is open so i put the wires in 3 and 4, and with metal in front the green light is on. When the metal pass it stops the tramper and both lights turn on.

 

[Lancie1]

LS3A is open so i put the wires in 3 and 4, and with metal in front the green light is on. When the metal pass it stops the tramper and both lights turn on.

If I am reading your drawing correctly, both LS3A and LS3B switches should be open "with no metal in front of it". When the Tramper is at bottom (metal in front of LS3A), LS3A closes, and when the Tramper is at top (metal in front of LS3B), LS3B closes. In other words, both LS3A and LS3B should be "normally open", but close when triggered.

 

[Marro13]

Okay See I'm not to familiar with this stuff are all the sensors suppose to be normaly open.

 

[Lancie1]

No, they may not all be normally open. You have to look at the information on the drawing to figure out how each sensor works. Many times the drawings do not contain enough information to show you if a sensor is N.O or N.C. The original definitions of NO and NC (the state of the device on-the-shelf or out-of-the box before it is installed) may not be applicable to the situation. Some modern sensors switch states when power is applied, then switch again when triggered, so the NO and NC definition of those devices becomes cloudy.

On your drawing, some positions are defined as being the state at which the sensors are shown. You should look at that as the best guide as to how they are supposed to work.

 

[Marro13]

I got almost all my inputs to work (and by work i mean all the lights to light up with either the sensor in front of metal or off metal). I tested all my inputs that come from my controls and everyone of them works too. except for the gather witch has 3 sensors that are not receiving any power due to a blown fuse. I'm not sure were this fuse is. i no there are a bunch of fuses inside the out put modules do you know if one of those fuses is bad will that shut my sensors off?