Boy injection molding machines

[Rich1955]

If you have little or no PLC programing experance than I will assume that you don't have the software to program the PLC and HMI eather. You have to add that to your price. Some of this software can cost you big bucks along with training for a one time deal.

 

[Clay B.]

My suggestions

Sounds like your going to be using these machines as what we call hobby machines. You not looking for speed, just consistancy and easy setup. With this in mind this is what I would suggest.

#1) Buy the manual with complete electrical drawings. Then make your own drawings. This will help big time down the road.
#2) Replace all sensors and switches. This will save you time in the long run with trouble shooting (that is if you lable your wires and devices)
#3) Pad your estimate to repair the Hydrolic leaks. Machines that are off more than on develope leaks like crazy. Myself, I dispise having to clean up hydrolic oil so I will replace all of the hoses from start.
#4) If the manual hydrolic valves work then get one spare of each if possible. You now have 3 machines with the same valves so trouble shooting the hydrolic system can be as simple as swapping valves.
#5) Add a PLC is a must. If you are checking molds you build then you will want feedback. You will want to know exactly what kind of pressures your using when you shoot the mold. Guages are cute to look at, but to see where presure is at with relation to process is a must to know if that part you made is **** due to the mold or the machine. To this end a series of pressure transducers tied back to the PLC can really go along way to keeping you from scratching your head.


I will not suggest a PLC to use due to soemthing that was pointed out on this sight. What PLC is best for you realy depends on where you are at. That being said here is how I would find out what you need.

Find out who is the local rep for the various PLC's. All PLC's have pluses and minuses. Allen Bradley, Siemens, and Automation Direct are all good PLC's in my opinion. Since you have implied that you have almost no PLC experience then I would want a local rep who you can use to get this machine to work. Bring the rep into your plant show him the machine and ask what he suggests. Make sure your are talking to their tech guy and not some sales man. Get to know the tech and get him in your pocket. This will save you alot of time later. Remeber that with a new PLC software and cables are extra. Also, study your process, nothing helps a tech more than the "right" questions.

 

[Erik van Leeuwen]

I made about 30 controls for overhaul of old machines which produce Expandable Polystyreen packaging (Kurtz, Erlenbach, AMD), I used the 226 CPU and some extra output modules.
The first machines run 3 years now witout problems.

I used Touchpanel TP070 in the beginning, but the amount of tags was sometimes too little, so I switched to TP170A.

For the program I used steps, so first step=quick closing, second step=slow closing, third step=closing on high presure,etc.

For the positioning of the mould I used encoder(type AB from Höhner with a 2 mtr. wire) connected to the highspeedcounter of the CPU.

Later I made a control for a big Injectionmoulding machine (for moulds 150x150cm).
For that I used Omron CQM1H, but next time I will use Siemens, for me that is easier to work with.

Do you need analog in and output as well?

 

[graemeian]

Jim,
Did you have any luck in converting your machines to PLC control. I also have a Boy 15s and I plan to convert if after I make a few batches. I need the PLC because I plan to make a part with threads and I need to incorporate a motor to un-thread the part. Also, I would like to know what switches are open/closed at any time. I recently converted the temperature controllers to digital. I purchased an Omron PLC for a few hundred along with software. I will use all of the existing switches on the machine. Therefore, my cost will only be for the PLC. When I get the project completed, I will send you the code if you need it. Do you have any extra user manuals for these machines?

 

[luiscruz222]

Anybody still have one working?

Hello,
Does anybody here still have the Boy 15S injection machine?
i recenly bought a used one, but it has no manual, and I'm having some issues trying to make it work.

 

[danatomega]

Have you tried to contact the company?
http://www.dr-boy.de/en/downloads/

 

[luiscruz222]

Yes, These older units are not produced any longer, and no manuals are available. I know that many users have upgaded them with PLCs, Mine actually has some Allan Bradley. I'm trying to figure out the max Amps, to size the electrical connection, and maybe some hydrolics diagrams. Electrical has laal been redone, so the original drawings would not apply exactly, but the overall electrcial configuration would help.

 

[graemeian]

Hi all,
I have a Boy machine 15S that I converted a couple of years ago.
You only need a DIO PLC for the job. You really do not need a manual to run the machine.
The only odd thing I encountered is that there was no retraction solenoid for the screw. The act of the screw turning and loading the barrel retracts the screw. This means you cannot run it dry. I am not an expert in these machines but I use them a lot. I kept the three black flip flop switches and I added some buttons to manually control the machine. All buttons are soft. I need to load the barrel to start the process. I can in theory run the machine using only manual buttons but I have not tried it.
With the barrel loaded, my processes is as follows.
Close the mold .
Use the HP clamp if needed for a larger part.
Make sure the carriage has the nozzle driven in the part.
Inject resin for a the required number of seconds. You are also allowing the resin to solidify.
Use one of the switches to make sure you do not run the screw too far forward.
Turn the screw until a limit switch is reached.
I leave the nozzle in sprue bushing.
Open the mold.
Eject the part.
Detect part drop.
Repeat as needed.
The machine has ran all day without needing an attendant.

I have also used the HP clamp to coin a part.
When I retrofitted, I first removed the timer and then all of the buttons. I fabricated a new console plate with about a dozen buttons.
Leave the other side of the electrical rail alone.
After I found and connected the solenoids, I added a relay for the pump.
I set my ohm meter to beep mode and each limit switch was found and added to the PLC.
There are a few limit switches that are coupled together or are normally the opposite.
I added digital temperature controllers.
I never added a locking kill switch but I have a lot of redundancy in the software. Oops, I just walked over to the 15S and there is hard kill switch for the motor only.
I also run the mold clamp slow to prevent slamming the mold shut.
The machine is slow and old.
I run the cooling water through a closed loop radiator outside (a gutted heat pump using the coils and fan) and I also use a box fan across the tank in warm conditions.
I do not know how hot the hydraulics should get but I can always hold my hand on the tank.
I am sure that I may be doing things wrong but I am making parts. All of my parts have threads so I use a motor to unscrew the parts. I hope this helps.

 

[CNC860]

Boy 15S Circa 1984

Hi all,
I have a Boy machine 15S that I converted a couple of years ago.
You only need a DIO PLC for the job. You really do not need a manual to run the machine.
The only odd thing I encountered is that there was no retraction solenoid for the screw. The act of the screw turning and loading the barrel retracts the screw. This means you cannot run it dry. I am not an expert in these machines but I use them a lot. I kept the three black flip flop switches and I added some buttons to manually control the machine. All buttons are soft. I need to load the barrel to start the process. I can in theory run the machine using only manual buttons but I have not tried it.
With the barrel loaded, my processes is as follows.
Close the mold .
Use the HP clamp if needed for a larger part.
Make sure the carriage has the nozzle driven in the part.
Inject resin for a the required number of seconds. You are also allowing the resin to solidify.
Use one of the switches to make sure you do not run the screw too far forward.
Turn the screw until a limit switch is reached.
I leave the nozzle in sprue bushing.
Open the mold.
Eject the part.
Detect part drop.
Repeat as needed.
The machine has ran all day without needing an attendant.

I have also used the HP clamp to coin a part.
When I retrofitted, I first removed the timer and then all of the buttons. I fabricated a new console plate with about a dozen buttons.
Leave the other side of the electrical rail alone.
After I found and connected the solenoids, I added a relay for the pump.
I set my ohm meter to beep mode and each limit switch was found and added to the PLC.
There are a few limit switches that are coupled together or are normally the opposite.
I added digital temperature controllers.
I never added a locking kill switch but I have a lot of redundancy in the software. Oops, I just walked over to the 15S and there is hard kill switch for the motor only.
I also run the mold clamp slow to prevent slamming the mold shut.
The machine is slow and old.
I run the cooling water through a closed loop radiator outside (a gutted heat pump using the coils and fan) and I also use a box fan across the tank in warm conditions.
I do not know how hot the hydraulics should get but I can always hold my hand on the tank.
I am sure that I may be doing things wrong but I am making parts. All of my parts have threads so I use a motor to unscrew the parts. I hope this helps.

I just purchased this machine and want to add a click plc and c'more 6"screen from Automation Direct, i am new to plc's and want to know if i should use an analog plc with 3 thermocouple modules to moniter the heaterbands? I would also like to moniter injection pressure/clamp pressure and dwell time for part solidifcation. How would i add a signal for part drop so that the machine knows the part was ejected? I also want Emergency stop added to the plc as well. Excellent idea on using a heatpump for water cooling, did you remove the heat pump and add a water circulation pump?I ordered the manual from Boy Machines $149. The machines control was backed into from a forklift so thats why i want to upgrade to a plc. Any further info you may have would be greatly appreciated.
TIA.

 

[graemeian]

I would not worry much about the PLC monitoring the heater bands.After being set, my temperature never fluctuates by more than 1C. I am using temperature PID controls that are always firing to an SSR..not the water heater control type. Pressure could be expensive as you will need a transducer. Any decent PLC will have numerous timers and software counters. The pressure will usually stay constant. If your mold is above ambient temperature and you have a heating element in the mold, the temperature will also remain constant if the shot size is no too big. I am currently running PVC and I draw air/heat away from the mold. Pick a PLC that uses inexpensive software or better yet free. For water circulation, I use an old power washer pump as it is a positive displacement type and it does add much heat due to friction. When you program it with a PC, you can leave the PC connected while running to monitor/record activity.
After your body work, you can put an aluminum plate over the analog temperature controllers and add slots for the new temperature controllers. Below the controller, you can add another aluminum plate with stand-offs as a heat sink for the SCRs. Reverse the plate to protect the wiring. When leak servicing, you can measure the orings and other seals and order all parts excluding pump parts from hydraulic suppliers on the web for about the price of your manual. When you put seals on a piston, install the seal first and the backing oring under the seal afterwards. Do not remove the machine side wires from the terminal strip. When I started my machine, I had a few small leaks. I punched a small hole on the tank put a sponge over the hole to recapture the oil. It forced me to keep the machine clean. I later replaced seals.