Tips.

Bearing warmers work good as a bun warmer for hamburgers, its hard to make the hot dogs stay at the top, but this can be done by stacking two SCL/504's on end to balance the load of the dogs, if the dogs are foot long then you may need to use 505's
 
Alan Case said:
Thanks Ron. I had a look at your site. Quite a few interesting tips.

The hot dog cooker, was that on 110v? and how many blown fuses did it take to figure it out.
Regards Alan Case

should work either way..Just take half as long!

No blown fuses, I never did leave one on long enough to find out if it would eventualy pop..come to think of it i never even put a meter on the libe to see what it draws..

One more..Milk is excellent lube for drilling stainless steel.
 
I use torx bits instead of easy-outs to remove broken bolts. Just drill a hole in the broken bolt and tap in the torx bit. They work great in reamed out allen bolt heads also. You can normally find a cheap set of the 1/4" drive torx bits for just a few dollars. I've yet to have broken one of them off in a broken bolt unlike the easy-outs.

Dale
 
Minor cuts - super glue or I just use paper towels and electrical/duct tape.

stripped countersunk allen screws head - if you can't pein the hex back into shape use a hefty center punch and force a 'dig' off center then drive screw out with axial hits (hard to describe)

35mm film canisters - poke a small hole in the lid's center, wind up a bunch of solder. Poke the inside coil end of the solder thru the hole. Easily fits in the hand.
Also dump some solder paste in one - those metal cans leak and mess up your tool kit

I carry 15W Ungar Princess and a propane solder iron. I made up a PVC pipe with end caps to protect the propane unit - looks like a pipe bomb though, so I wouldn't recommend airplane travel

Nytril examination gloves keep your hands clean in most gunk out there. Keeps the schematics clean. Last longer than latex gloves

Double flute taps seem stronger to me and the points work nicely as a QND center punch.

DIGITAL CAMERA! - I now shoot before and after shots. Beats hasty hand sketchs and is a great CYA - wire colors and labels right there on your laptop.

Diamond hones - I carry diamond hones to touchup carbide and HSS stuff. Ever have a boogered keyway on a hardened steel shaft? Diamonds. I even carry a 1200 grit credit card sized hone in my wallet - knock the scratches off a hydraulic piston before replacing the seals AGAIN!

Learn how to sharpen drill bits, taps and step-drills

METRINCH kit - definitely! Boogered heads? 14mm or 9/16s? Who cares. I've stuck a 1/2" impact wrench on them and that bolt WILL COME OUT!

Mix ATF and Slick 50 at 50/50% for emergency bearing lube, makes great tapping fluid

Nice flexible comfy nylon looking knee pads - Us old pharts have trouble after a 4 hours on the concrete

Anyone use a bill cap with LEDs for lighting?

And the list goes on...


Rod (The CNC Dude)
 
This is a good thread ... Some of these are old hat, others are new to me. I have a simple one:

Use a short piece of 3/8" (or is it 1/4"?) tubing to extract lamps from pushbutton sockets.
 
Get a junior hacksaw, looks like a cheese saw, weighs like an ounce,(every ounce counts in the pouch) I've cut through 12" cable tray, 3c#4/0 tech, 2" rigid. $1.99 at Canadian Tire. Get lots of spare blades. Very fine tooth (30 tpi?) Goes through copper and aluminum nicely.
faithfull%20junior%20hacksaw.jpg

But I use it most when stripping teck for teck connectors,
SuperTermFittings.jpg

cut around the PVC jacket then at a 45 to the cable an inch down toward the end cut though the PVC and just through the aluminum wrap. Give it a twist and you can get down to the inner PVC in about 15 seconds with a nice clean edge.
teck90multiconductor1.jpg

(not quite as clean as this photo!)
 
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Using a five gallon plastic bucket, inserting your power leads across from each other, fill bucket with water and gradually add salt to measure your current levels . Not recommended!! However sometimes when your out in the field its a good way to test breakers.
 
Sick I may be with hamsters , but Jim - that is NOT a good idea - I can just see the writs arriving at your door with that one - I'd agree that we must be innovative , but that one just doesn't go (unless of course you don't like someone)
 
I have used salt (brine) tanks for more years than I can count for load testing.

In the old days some of the rides used salt tanks but if we did not have one available we would just make it using 55 gal drums for gensets but I have used 5 gallon drums on occasion depending on need.

I do not know if its a go now but there was a time when it was the only way to do some things. There are formuals etc that can be used to determine relative conductivity.
 
I found the brine tank discussion of interest and googling I stumbled across this site that has answers to hundreds of scientific questions.
By the way I found on that site that pure water is a poor conductor here. Cool.

Brian.
 
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It is the potential danger of the process that worries me ! of course it works , but there are safer ways of load testing and preventing 10mA passing through my heart . There is no where I know of where safety is a true concern where the procedure would be allowed - not trying to be difficult - but unless this was carried out in extremely controlled conditions - it wouldn't be allowed ( and a 45 gallon drum connected to a genset wouldn't fall into that catagory) . I know it works , but so does using carbon tet for degreasing - it just gives you cancer if not properly applied .
 
Specifically what makes this so dangerous. I would assume you would use a nonconductive container and make it physically stable. You could add the water and salt with power disconnected. Have the amprobe by the disconnecting means so that power can be removed easily. Put a safety barrier around the barrel. I've seen and heard of much unsafer practices. Seems more impractical than inherently unsafe.

Brian.
 

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