Robot Gripper Wiring

I have a little robot that has a Schunk quick change so it can change to different grippers. The quick change has a HD15 connector (like a VGA connector) that passes 15 pins to the disconnect. I have the top row of pins on the connector bridged together for 24vcd and the bottom row of pins bridged for the 24v common. All the middle pins are used for prox sensors and such. The first problem I had was breaking wires in the cable from all the flexing. So I got some good Lutza super flex robot cable thinking that would fix the problem. Now I keep having trouble with the solder joints on the back of the connector breaking loose. I think if I had a good molded connector with a good strain relief it would fix the problem. However all the HD15 cable I can find are monitor cables. I don't think that would hold up. I have not been able to find a back shell for the connector that has any type of strain relief much less a molded cable that can flex. Any suggestions?

Try making a form and casting the back of the connector with epoxy. This way you can keep your Lutza cable and protect the solder joints.

I had this same problem on a Robohand tool changer on a gantry. The tool-changer and our gripper and riveter tools had the DB15 connectors and they were potted in the rear. The DB15 was just not a rugged enough connection for an industrial environment. We had them changed out with the miltary-style round Amphenol type connectors and never had another problem.

We had them changed out with the miltary-style round Amphenol type connectors and never had another problem.

Click to expand...

I've looked at going to the Amphenol style but it is only on larger disconnects. Next time I will go with a larger one and get the Amphenol but I have to live with the two I have for now.

I may try the epoxy. I have done that before on servo motor cables. My only worry is that the cable will break on the hard edge of the epoxy.

A soldered connection doesn't like continuous flexing, as you now know...

The solder tends to wick up into the wire, making a stiff joint.

I agree with the other about swapping the D-sub connector for something more industrial. I like the Harting style conectors even more than the MS connectors.

You might also try using crimp contacts rather than solder cup D-subs. Something like the ones at the top right of THIS page.

Is there any way you can secure the cable itself AFTER the connection?



-Eric

Welcome back Eric

This is not the best pic but here it is.

The crip connectors might help as long as they didn't pull the pins back. If I can get it held on the back shell then they might be a better option. I think I will order some just to try. I like having lots of options.