Automated Parking System Using OMRON PLC and HMI

Yes, that relay should be fine.

A voltage regulator should work, but will produce a LOT of heat. I'm not discounting the idea, I just want you to be aware.

If you're going to purchase a 24VDC Power Supply, maybe take a look for a +/-12VDC supply large enough to give 12 Volts for the motor (I think that would be the nominal voltage of your motor, and would only be a minor change in speed) and 24 Volts for your inputs. Perhaps a reasonable price can be found, and keep your component count low.

I was going to post this earlier, but have been in meetings all afternoon, but EZAutomation has 12mm inductive proximity switches for $9.99US. Unfortunately, If VAT bumps your cost up to $80.00US, then it may not be an option for you.

We can use a heat sink for that right ? does my heat sink and voltage regulator go along together ?

I have a SMPS which can supply 24VDC. However, I have a power supply module which can supply 15V. Should i directly power up my motor from that via a relay ? If I do that, how would my PLC know that a motor is on ?

btw thank you so much for that inductive proximity switch! I found this in a Malaysian website. So, I can order it without VAT :) Is that sensor okay??? pleaseee say yes !! like the current specifications and other specs ?
the voltage specs :
Switching Voltage 200 VDC/AC Max
Will i be able to supply 24VDC and turn it on ?
 
About your Cytron SN-IRS-02: It is not a complete package but only the IR Transmitter and Receiver. To make it into a complete sensor, you need a 5 volt power supply AND some resistors AND some wire AND a circuit board to mount the components AND some solder AND some skill and knowledge on how to put it together. Here is the tutorial on how to put it together.
http://tutorial.cytron.com.my/2012/09/07/how-to-use-ir-sensor/

How will you do that if each of your IR sensors needs a breadboard to connect the resistors? It seems you will need a very large breadboard if your garage has 15 cars!

Doing all that work may not be much savings in the end after you burn out a few units when you hold your soldering iron on a terminal too long.

OR you can buy those inductive proximity sensors that Jordan recommended from Automation Direct, complete units ready to use (no soldering or assembly required), for about $10 US.

Wow! You are right ! Could you please check my other components and give your opinions sir? and yes I think I am going to buy the Inductive proximity sensor .
 
Should i directly power up my motor from that via a relay ? If I do that, how would my PLC know that a motor is on ?
PLC sends power to 24 VDC coil of relay. Relay switches 15 volts from your 15 volt supply to the motor. Motor runs. PLC ASSUMES motor is running. If you need positive feedback that motor is running, you would need another sensor (Zero Speed Switch is industrial version, or student version is a prox switch looking at a metal target attached to motor shaft or tail pulley).
btw thank you so much for that inductive proximity switch! I found this in a Malaysian website. So, I can order it without VAT :) Is that sensor okay??? pleaseee say yes !!
Yes, the CT1302 Reed Switch will work if you can get your magnet target within 10 to 20 mm of the face of the proximity reed switch. You will need a magnet for each switch- something similar to the suggested magnet model CT1302M. You can probably find a cheaper magnet that will work. Because it is only a magnetic reed switch (no electronic parts), it will work on any voltage from 6 to 230, AC or DC. I would buy the package deal of 15 for 31.60 each. Use 9 for car position sensors, 2 for lift positions, and 2 for entry gate and 2 for exit gate.

From experience, you really need 2 at each entry or exit, one on inside of gate and one on outside. The reason is if a car pulls in to the gate, stops, thinks about it, your sensor detects the car and assumes it will enter, then car drives away for some reason. Now your count is wrong, and your garage will lose money because there are empty spaces that are being counted as filled with a car. With two sensors, one on inside looking to see if car actually entered, that problem goes away.

The same logic applies to the exit gate. Someone may start to leave, but they decide there is one more thing to do in the city before leaving. With one exit sensor on the inside of the exit gate, your PLC would not detect that car is still in the garage. With another on the outside, the PLC can see that the car actually exited.
 
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That link is to the magnet, not the prox, just to give a heads up. The switch itself is the same part number, but without the 'M'. You'd be looking at about MYR45.00 for a set.

Just had a thought. What about using two springs as a contact? One spring to the power supply, one to the input? If you use a Matchbox car (I think they're still die-Cast, it might get you where you're going.
 
That link is to the magnet, not the prox, just to give a heads up. The switch itself is the same part number, but without the 'M'. You'd be looking at about MYR45.00 for a set.

Just had a thought. What about using two springs as a contact? One spring to the power supply, one to the input? If you use a Matchbox car (I think they're still die-Cast, it might get you where you're going.

Could you please explain how two springs idea will work ? I am kinda confused :S
 
PLC sends power to 24 VDC coil of relay. Relay switches 15 volts from your 15 volt supply to the motor. Motor runs. PLC ASSUMES motor is running. If you need positive feedback that motor is running, you would need another sensor (Zero Speed Switch is industrial version, or student version is a prox switch looking at a metal target attached to motor shaft or tail pulley).

Yes, the CT1302 Reed Switch will work if you can get your magnet target within 10 to 20 mm of the face of the proximity reed switch. You will need a magnet for each switch- something similar to the suggested magnet model CT1302M. You can probably find a cheaper magnet that will work. Because it is only a magnetic reed switch (no electronic parts), it will work on any voltage from 6 to 230, AC or DC. I would buy the package deal of 15 for 31.60 each. Use 9 for car position sensors, 2 for lift positions, and 2 for entry gate and 2 for exit gate.

From experience, you really need 2 at each entry or exit, one on inside of gate and one on outside. The reason is if a car pulls in to the gate, stops, thinks about it, your sensor detects the car and assumes it will enter, then car drives away for some reason. Now your count is wrong, and your garage will lose money because there are empty spaces that are being counted as filled with a car. With two sensors, one on inside looking to see if car actually entered, that problem goes away.

The same logic applies to the exit gate. Someone may start to leave, but they decide there is one more thing to do in the city before leaving. With one exit sensor on the inside of the exit gate, your PLC would not detect that car is still in the garage. With another on the outside, the PLC can see that the car actually exited.


I would definitely need feedback from the motor to see when its on and off so i can show that on HMI right ?

I completely agree with your point of having 2 sensors at the entrance and exit. So, the sensor which I have chosen should do the job right ? Why would I need a separate magnet for each switch ? The car should be metal and that's about it right ?
 
All right, let's back up a moment. I think we're getting confused on sensor types...

The CT1302 is a example of a reed switch. The contact will close in the proximity of a magnetic field. So, a magnet is necessary for it to work.

The other type, the inductive proximity switch makes its own magnetic field. When a magnetic metal comes within the field, the contact closes (I use the term "contact" loosely here. Inductive proxes are generally electronic in nature). Magnetic metals are metals that can be attracted with a magnet. Iron and nickel are the most common magnetic metals. I can give you the whole lecture on why they work the way they do, but for our purposes, remember that inductive proxes work with iron. They won't work with other metals like aluminum or zinc.



******************
Using the CT1302, you would need a sensor for every location, and a magnet for every vehicle.
******************

My idea for using springs. The vehicle acts as a switch contact. The springs are just a mechanical interface for the vehicle, and provide a bit of flexibility.

12-5-2013 6-20-38 AM.jpg
 
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Good job, Jordan. The cheapest switch is two pieces of springy metal. For a student project, that might be perfectly acceptable where the voltage is 24 volts and the cars have metal bodies.
I would definitely need feedback from the motor to see when its on and off so I can show that on HMI right?
Yes if you want a HMI indicator to show for certain that a motor is running, you need a PLC input from a switch or sensor which can verify that the motor is rotating.
 
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In many cases in the real world, people use motor starters to run motors. The motor starters have a normally-open auxiliary contact that is used to indicate that the starter is energized. Often those auxiliary contacts are used as a proxy for the "Motor Running" indicator. You could do a similar design by using a second N.O. contact from your 24-volt coil relay as an input to the PLC. Contact #1 starts the motor. Contact #2 sends a TRUE signal to PLC which turns on the HMI indicator for "Motor Running". Of course the PLC actually doesn't know that the motor is running (rotating), but it is a common practice, so you should be okay if you do it that way.
 
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All right, let's back up a moment. I think we're getting confused on sensor types...

The CT1302 is a example of a reed switch. The contact will close in the proximity of a magnetic field. So, a magnet is necessary for it to work.

The other type, the inductive proximity switch makes its own magnetic field. When a magnetic metal comes within the field, the contact closes (I use the term "contact" loosely here. Inductive proxes are generally electronic in nature). Magnetic metals are metals that can be attracted with a magnet. Iron and nickel are the most common magnetic metals. I can give you the whole lecture on why they work the way they do, but for our purposes, remember that inductive proxes work with iron. They won't work with other metals like aluminum or zinc.



******************
Using the CT1302, you would need a sensor for every location, and a magnet for every vehicle.
******************

My idea for using springs. The vehicle acts as a switch contact. The springs are just a mechanical interface for the vehicle, and provide a bit of flexibility.

Alright, so let me get this straight. So, we have the proximity switch(CT1302) which works like a reed switch basically ? I can supply 24VDC from the SMPS to these reed switches as INPUT. The reed switches basically detect any magnetic field within its range. For instance, at the entrance - I would have two reed switches. When I move my metallic (Iron) car close to it, it would get detected and send an Input to the PLC . The reed switches would have two wires? one for the Input to the sensor from SMPS and one directly to the input of PLC(24VDC). I could defend myself saying in reality all cars do have some sort of magnet within the car (speakers, motors etc.) and hence this model would work right ?

I was just wondering ? Why not have a magnetic reed switch ? that way you can have any metallic car that would be detected. In the previous case, I would need to install a magnet on to my toy car ?

andddd one more thing .. what is the difference between reed switch and limit switch ?
 
In many cases in the real world, people use motor starters to run motors. The motor starters have a normally-open auxiliary contact that is used to indicate that the starter is energized. Often those auxiliary contacts are used as a proxy for the "Motor Running" indicator. You could do a similar design by using a second N.O. contact from your 24-volt coil relay as an input to the PLC. Contact #1 starts the motor. Contact #2 sends a TRUE signal to PLC which turns on the HMI indicator for "Motor Running". Of course the PLC actually doesn't know that the motor is running (rotating), but it is a common practice, so you should be okay if you do it that way.

You are so awesome !!! I don't know how to thank you ! :p
Can you please check the following website and suggest me a motor for opening and closing of entrance and exit gates? Cheaper the better obviously since its just a college project.

http://malaysia.rs-online.com/web/

I have these two motors in my lab already . Can it be used for the lift system ?

Motor 1
Make : Como Drills
Current rating : 2.85A
Output speed : 13360 rpm
power rating: 21.2W
supply voltage: 4.5V - 15V

Motor 2

http://www.cytron.com.my/viewProduct.php?pcode=SPG30-20K
 
All right, let's back up a moment. I think we're getting confused on sensor types...

The CT1302 is a example of a reed switch. The contact will close in the proximity of a magnetic field. So, a magnet is necessary for it to work.

The other type, the inductive proximity switch makes its own magnetic field. When a magnetic metal comes within the field, the contact closes (I use the term "contact" loosely here. Inductive proxes are generally electronic in nature). Magnetic metals are metals that can be attracted with a magnet. Iron and nickel are the most common magnetic metals. I can give you the whole lecture on why they work the way they do, but for our purposes, remember that inductive proxes work with iron. They won't work with other metals like aluminum or zinc.



******************
Using the CT1302, you would need a sensor for every location, and a magnet for every vehicle.
******************

My idea for using springs. The vehicle acts as a switch contact. The springs are just a mechanical interface for the vehicle, and provide a bit of flexibility.

btw, I found this recently...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-New-L...080?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4614a50258

What say ?
 
Alright, so let me get this straight. So, we have the proximity switch(CT1302) which works like a reed switch basically ?
Not only does it act like one, it is one!:)

When I move my metallic (Iron) car close to it, it would get detected and send an Input to the PLC .
Very close! The iron in a car won't actuate a reed switch, since the car itself isn't a magnet. That's why I said you'd need a magnet in each car. Also, toy cars aren't made of iron. more on that in a bit.

The reed switches would have two wires? one for the Input to the sensor from SMPS and one directly to the input of PLC(24VDC).
That is correct.

I could defend myself saying in reality all cars do have some sort of magnet within the car (speakers, motors etc.) and hence this model would work right?
Well... no. For the same reason I gave above. Yes there are magnets in the speakers, but magnets get exponentially weaker the further away you get. It's why you can't stick your car keys to the outside of your car door!:ROFLMAO:

I was just wondering ? Why not have a magnetic reed switch ? that way you can have any metallic car that would be detected. In the previous case, I would need to install a magnet on to my toy car ?
In real life, inductive prox sensors are used. the sensing head is essentially one very large coil of wire embedded into the pavement. There's enough iron in the car to actuate these types of sensors. In your scale model, though, you would most likely need to use a reed switch and a magnet. Die-cast toys are made of a zinc/aluminum alloy.

andddd one more thing .. what is the difference between reed switch and limit switch ?
Reed switch: requires a magnet to actuate.
Limit switch: mechanically actuated. Something needs to physically press the switch

LS.jpg
 

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