Ferrule crimps

Molex has this information in their Industrial Crimp Quality Handbook, available here (pdf format).

You'll want to look at pages 5 and 21.
 
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in the earlier years you would probably solder the lug in prefference to cripming. as a result you would need a few millimeters
Usually you would apply a shieth (heat Shrink or other - not insulation Tape) after fitting.
But Still ensure no Physical contact is easy.
 
Kent, that's a nice resource. I've read that a proper crimp has so much force applied that the individual strands deform into a solid mass with no holes.

I once crimped a 16ga. wire into a butt splice with the wire forming a large "O", then gave it to my kids to try and break. They finally did it (took a couple of days), but it was the wire that broke, about 1/4" away from the crimp. The crimp itself held.
 
My understanding is that the stranded conductors are required to protrude 0.5mm past the end, so I always cut exact length necessary or make them long and trim afterward.

I believe it was to make sure all strands extend the full length of the ferrule.

I will try to find out where I read that...

here is one place...page 3... http://blog.gexproautomation.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Weidmuller_Ferrules_WhitePaper.pdf

Kent

Wow! Thanks for the link. I've always simply trimmed the end of any excess wire, and moved on. That way, I knew that the wire was fully in the entire ferrule. Of course, measuring a 0.5mm distance will be a bit of a challenge.
:)
 
A standard credit card has a thickness of 0.75mm, so it's tough to get exactly 0.5mm. A standard sheet of 20lb paper is very nearly 0.1mm thick, by comparison.

For industrial purposes, you should be fine making sure that the strands extend far enough past the ferrule barrel to verify that the crimp is good, but no so far that they are obviously too long (say, about 1/32" or so). I usually strip my wires exactly to length, but use a little extra push on the wire while crimping in order to make sure the strands extend far enough.
 

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