need cheap parts ??????

drewcrew6

Member
Join Date
Apr 2002
Location
allentown, Pa
Posts
418
Maybe someone has an idea on this.
I'm looking for a 24vdc solenoid with actuator about a 2" stroke.
But I need the pull to be relatively slow (able to watch the movement) possibly oil or spring dampened? Preferably spring or a well sealed unit, it will not be accesable when in service.
Does not need a whole lot of pull just to shift hvac dampers.
I know I can buy motorized dampers but manual dampers are all installed already. And I'm just looking for a way to tweak the damper not full temp control.

It is a home project so cost is a major issue.
Thought about car lock sol 12vdc but they snap to hard.

Thanks
Drewcrew6
 
Last edited:
Well, you want cheap, and you've already considered door lock controls, take that thought a step further and consider a power window motor. They move relatively slow, and can be found in a junk yard. Another alternative, early to mid '70s GM (Oldsmobile for certain, maybe others such as caddalac and Buick) used a threaded shaft arrangement on a motor for the door lock (sort of like a "stripped down" linear actuator). While you're at the junk yard, check out the power seat workings, one of those may fit your purposes.
 
I like that site !!

Leaning towards the mini stepper motors, has anyone gotten one?

Thanks
Drewcrew6

now if i could find a cheap 240 volt 5hp motor for my compressor?
 
Years ago I bought a stepper kit from ALL just to learn about how they work. The one I got was operated by a pot, not a pulse train.
 
Since car motors are mentioned, don't forget the windshield wiper motor. Lots of torque, slow speed, a nice crank arm, easy to mount and when the park relay is engaged, a repeatable stoping position.
 
I'm thinking about ordering 3-4 different motors from them to use in the 5' RC boat I'm tryin to get working....can't beat the price since I can get (2) of all 4 motors and only spend about as much as I would on a single normal RC motor
 
And if you use a car device (window, wiper, or whatever), put the two in series, with the mechanicals properly situated, and you can still use your 24V original source.
 

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