Eaton easy512-dc-rc setup for conveyer noobie questions

[freakaftr8]

oh and also I'm still using the original program not the one with the jumpered run command.

 

[freakaftr8]

I just answered my ok question p 5.02 was not programmed. I programmed p5.03 instead on accident. I programmed a value of 20 in p5.01 and 30 in p5.03. Works great! But still not getting a stop conveyer at sensor 2. Also sensor 1 is not turning on 24v to solenoid 1 (Q4). Guess I'll have to look into these sensors.

 

[freakaftr8]

okay so on to the next problem the reason the sensors don't seem to be reacting to anything is because when the sensor is triggered I'm only getting .5 volts DC to the input of the PLC from sensor 1 (I4) and sensor 2 (I5). Not 24v. hopefully its a wiring configuration problem on the sensor and not in incompatible sensor

Pin 1 is +v brown wire
Pin 2 is load to +v white wire to i4 on plc
Pin 3 is - going to 0v (ground) of power supply
Pin 4 is load to - (not used)


These are in the book and also labeled on the sensor.
Eaton E58-30dps280-hlp

Should I use load- wire to ground as well?

 

[Lancie1]

Now when I press speed 1/2 button, its not changing from the first speed.

But it did run at Slow Speed? That is amazing that you got 1 speed out of 2 to work the first time!

There is a slight correction to be made to the EZ program. On Rung 006, put a new "Q01" n.o. contact on top of the old "I03" n.c. contact. This change was a result of setting up the Preset speeds so that both had to be ON for Speed 3.

Also the stop on sensor 2 button just stops the track it will not start back up no matter if I cover the sensors or not.

You have to simulate "removing the part", or the absence of a part, not cover up the sensor. Covering up the sensor seems to me would tell it something is still there.

It could be that the M05 Restart One-Shot does not keep the M01 relay ON long enough for it to seal-in.

Here is Revision 3, with 2 changes to fix both your problems. To fix the restart problem, I inserted a new Rung 5 to reset M05. Then on Rung 017, I changed M05 from a one-shot output to a Set Output, so it stays on until the M01 RUN relay goes ON again and then Resets M05.

To fix the speed problem, that was caused by changing the EZ speed terminals so that 1 has to be ON for Speed 1, and 2 have to be ON for Speed 3 (instead of 1 Off, 1 ON). So on Rung 007 (old Rung 006), I changed the n.c. I03 instruction to a n.o. Q01 instruction. Now the Speed 1 Output Q02 goes ON when the VFD RUN Output Q01 goes ON. Then Speed 3 is switched ON when I03 goes ON.

Should I use load- wire to ground as well?

No, I don't think you should have the Load- Black wire connected to anything. But check with a voltmeter between Pin 4 and Pin 3 (-24v) to see if +24 volts appears on that Pin 4 Load- when the sensor is triggered.

If it does, then you need to connect that Black wire to the EZ Input 4 (instead of the white load+ wire). Sometimes these switch instructions are translated from some other language and things get lost or confused in the translation. This problem goes back to the old Sinking and Sourcing conundrum - no apparent good way to communicate the concepts.

What type of sensor is it anyway - proximity type or photoswitch type? Reading the online description, I thought it was a proximity switch. If so, it only activates on seeing a metal target of some type, the more iron or steel in the target, the better it works.

 

[freakaftr8]

Ok I got it. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Yea I have both speeds working well as it is now. But the sensors are a proximity type that I was told switches on and off.

 

[Lancie1]

"Proximity" means it switches when the head is close to ferrous metal. Try putting a piece of steel under a switch, and then seeing if you get +24V between the White and the -24V lead. If so, the switch is working as expected. It may be that your masks do not contain enough metal to trigger the prox switches. If not, you may have to change to a photoswitch type. There are plenty of different types of photoswitches, and one of them will work to detect your masks.

 

[freakaftr8]

I'm a little lost on speed 3 anyway. What's that for if speed 1/2 is controlled by a toggle?

 

[freakaftr8]

"Proximity" means it switches when the head is close to ferrous metal. Try putting a piece of steel under a switch, and then seeing if you get +24V between the White and the -24V lead. If so, the switch is working as expected. It may be that your masks do not contain enough metal to trigger the prox switches. If not, you may have to change to a photoswitch type. There are plenty of different types of photoswitches, and one of them will work to detect your masks.

good call ill try this tomorrow. however i did try the metal today and had no results. I tried probing for 24v onthe white and whenthe led lights up in the bulkhed of the sensor i seem to only recieve .5v. ill try diffetent combinations tomorrow

 

[Lancie1]

Here is the deal: Your VFD defines 3 possible Preset speeds: Speed 1, Speed 2, and Speed 3.

Speed 1 can be activated by Bit 2 going ON.
Speed 3 and be activated by Bits 2 and 1 going ON.

You do not need to use Speed 2, because to activate it, you have to turn Bit 2 OFF, and Bit 1 ON. It takes fewer EZ Outputs (2 including the RUN) to use Speeds 1 and 3, or Speeds 2 and 3, but not Speeds 1 and 2 (which would require 3 outputs). I am just saying set it up like this, in case you ever do need an Output for something else, then you won't have to go back and change everything. So use and program Speeds 1 and 3 as defined by your GS1, even though right now you do have the extra Output available and in use in the program. Why not - do you care what the names of the Speeds are, as long as you can make it run at a Slow Speed (#1), and a Faster Speed (#3)?

 

[freakaftr8]

Ok im on board now. so I will have to make that wiring change with the jumper still for this to work?

edit: Guess I should have read post 55 better..You explained all there including wiring changes. But in the program it is still utilizing q1 q2 and q3. the revision 3 program, is that still set up for the current wiring from the way i have it in the pic from post 56? or should i make the wiring changes described in post 55?

 

[Lancie1]

lf I were you, I would leave the wiring as it is for now, but upload the last EZ program in Post #79. That program has 2 fixes that allow your wiring to work "as is", and attempts to improve on the Prox 2 End-of-line Stop and Restart routine.

I just answered my ok question p 5.02 was not programmed. I programmed p5.03 instead on accident.

NO, P5.03 is for Speed 3, and it is the one you should use, not P5.02. The problem is the old program was set up by me for Speeds 1 and 2, when all the time you should have been using Speeds 1 and 3.

 

[freakaftr8]

Ok we have 24v! It's on the black wire which in the print shows - load wire. oddly these sensors are working the opposite. lighting up until I put an object in front of them then they shut off the 24 volts is it possible that the blue and brown need to be reversed? Then use the white wire for 24v load input?

 

[freakaftr8]

nevermind on wiring the positive and negative leads backwards that did not work but apparently the black wire is my load. Interesting though these photo sensors are the opposite of what I thought they would do. They're normally closed until he source of the object enters the eye then it opens circuit.

so essentially 24 volts is always present until an object enters the eye then the 24 volt signal disappears

 

[freakaftr8]

nevermind on wiring the positive and negative leads backwards that did not work but apparently the black wire is my load. Interesting though these photo sensors are the opposite of what I thought they would do. They're normally closed until he source of the object enters the eye then it opens circuit.

so essentially 24 volts is always present until an object enters the eye then the 24 volt signal disappears

I am currently trying to figure out how to switch the I04 and I05 in the program from normally open to normally closed and I just cannot seem to do it. Is that even possible and could it work?

 

[Lancie1]

Interesting though these photo sensors are the opposite of what I thought they would do.

I am glad to finally know WHICH type of switch you have. You know, it would have been a lot easier to know that up front when writing the logic for the program! You started out called them photoeyes, then at Post #32, you changed over and started calling them "prox" switches. I thought you must have changed over.

Are you guys familiar with the cutler hammer perfect prox series 4 wire proximity sensors?

Then you really had photoswitches all along and not proximity switches. There is a HUGE difference between the two. There are 4 or 5 different MAJOR types of photoswitches. You probably ordered the "dark-on" or "dark-operate" type, which has an ON output until it is triggered by an object. So yes, your PLC logic will have to be reversed, and parts may have to be much different than now. Let me look at it.